It all starts at the Bellavista Nanay market, ideal for exploring the local gastronomy. Skewered suris (large crunchy worms), congompes (snails) and other delicacies are sold here. Motorists offer a day tour that includes a floating restaurant, Isla de los Monos (more zoo than refuge), the Boras art show (at Padre Cocha, dances and crafts with too much drama) and the Independencia lookout, an observation tower over the birth of the Amazon. Only stop where you really want to. We recommend a visit to the Butterfly Farm, now an animal shelter.

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