Lost almost 40 km north of Zomba, the Chikala Pillars are an amazing geological curiosity. These sandstone pillars, created by erosion and gullying, are worth a look. Located at the foot of the green hills of Chikala, the site was inhabited (for 6 months in 1912) by Hans Coudenhove, a member of a German aristocratic family, who lived, sometimes in complete autarky, in Africa from 1896 to 1925 (the date of his death). He recounted his experience in a book, My African Neighbours, teeming with faunistic, floristic and ethnological information about the surroundings of the Chikala Pillars and the two tamed ravens, Grip and Nevermore, that accompanied him at the time. African Heritage (US$70/person), among others, organizes guided tours of the site from Zomba. If you wish to reach the pillars by your own means, be aware that the track that leaves the village of Malosa (on the M3 between Zomba and Liwonde) is, in some places, very ravine; a 4x4 is therefore more than recommended, especially during the rainy season. In addition, the absence of road signs makes it necessary to question the premises in order to find one's way. Once your vehicle is parked, near a small military camp, you will have about 30 minutes to walk and a small stream to cross to reach the site. The geographical isolation of the Chikala Pillars and their delicate access make it wise to hire a guide from Zomba (or Liwonde).

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