25 km west of Amritsar. The ceremonial closing of the Indo-Pak border begins at around 4:30 pm in winter, and 5:30 pm in summer. Plan to be there for 1.5 hours, even if the military parade lasts only half an hour. Every evening, to the shouts and patriotic cries of hundreds of cheering Indians, the guards of the Pakistani and Indian armies perform the same skilfully devised choreography. More than a military parade, it's a real spectacle offered to the public. On both sides, Indians and Pakistanis crowd the stands to shout out their nationality with pride. But while the stands on the Indian side are always packed, the same cannot be said of the Pakistani side, where only a few dozen (separated) men and women attend the ceremony. Before the flag is lowered, a soldier warms up the stands and the music starts. The crowd repeats the patriotic slogan "Hindustan Zindabad" ("Long live India") at the top of their voices, cheering their army. It's up to the country to shout the loudest... The spectacle is surreal. Foreign tourists are entitled to VIP seats in the front row. Don't forget to bring your passport, which you'll need to show to the guards to gain access to the stands. Please note that for security reasons, panniers and backpacks are not allowed. You can only take your camera, identity papers and a bottle of water with you.To enter the VIP tribune, turn right up the road and pass through a security checkpoint at the post office. Then go up the left-hand side of the road. A second security gate is located just before the stands. From here, follow the path straight to the VIP stand.If there is tension between the two countries, make sure the ceremony is actually taking place before you go. The border may be closed.

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