ANTWERP BEGIJNHOF

Here's a truly fascinating place of narrow streets, picturesque ^16th-century brick and sandstone houses, listed as a Unesco World Heritage Site like all Flemish beguinages. Note the monumental Baroque portico adorned with the statue of Saint Begge, patron saint of the beguines, which precedes the triangular square, as well as the neo-Gothic and neo-classical Saint Catherine's Church, built in 1827 (the original was destroyed in 1799). It is decorated with paintings by Jordaens. An oratory houses a Christ in bonds.

Beguines were devout women who lived a communal life without taking monastic vows. Antwerp's very first beguinage (1240-1542), Het Hof Sion, was built to the south, away from the city walls. But the city decided to burn them down to prevent them from being taken by enemy troops. Rebuilt in 1545, a time of prosperity, the beguinage was renovated and enlarged. By the end of the ^18th century, there were almost 150 beguines. The site was desecrated during the French Revolution, and the Antwerp municipality dismantled part of the complex in 1819. Nevertheless, the beguines continued to live in faith until the end of the ^20th century, a little out of time. Virginie Laeremans, Antwerp's last beguine, died in 1986. Today, the beguinage houses are inhabited by lay people. It's a small, quiet green space, jealously preserved in the heart of the city, close to the university.