2024

ABOUNA YEMATA CHURCH (GUH)

Churches cathedrals basilicas and chapels

This church is undoubtedly the most difficult to reach, due to its spectacular location, buried as it is in the heart of a rocky outcrop, which can be seen from Mariam Korkor at the end of the rocky façade stretching north-westwards. It's also the best-known church in Tigray. After a good hour's ascent, many give up on the final stretch: a small sheer drop pierced by irregular holes where you have to cling on hand and foot, a few dead branches serving incidentally as a handrail - and recently, at last, a rope to get over the most perilous wall passage. If you're afraid of heights, don't bother - it's mission impossible! Those who overcome the obstacle won't regret it: the entrance to the church is located at the end of a narrow passage running alongside a vertiginous cliff. A few meters of this is a guaranteed thrill. Once your eyes have become accustomed to the darkness, you'll discover the frescoes that adorn the sanctuary. They are described as the finest ever discovered in the Tigray region. On the entrance ceiling, nine figures in a circle are identified by inscriptions as eight of the apostles and, according to an unconfirmed theory, Christ's brother is depicted. On the other dome, eight figures in the same posture represent eight of the nine Syrian saints who, according to tradition, were responsible for the evangelization of the country from the 6th century onwards. The ninth, Abouna Yemata himself, is depicted on horseback on one of the walls. The freshness of the colors is an indication that these paintings date from the 15th or 16th century. The young priest in charge of this church will be happy to show you some richly illustrated and well-preserved ancient gheze bibles.

Please note. Due to the success of this church, which is very popular with tourists, the rope "helpers" have no qualms about trying to extort money from tourists (even though the rope was provided free of charge by an association to make the site a little safer). They ask for 100 birr each after helping you down, even if it means blocking your way if you don't comply. Don't let them do this to you, as it's not normal. Give them 50 birr for each person you help, and that's more than enough. The priest will also ask for 100 birrs per person, which is more like 50 birrs on top of the entrance fee.

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2024

MARIAM KORKOR AND ABOUNA DANIEL CHURCHES

Churches cathedrals basilicas and chapels
5/5
1 review

If you have to limit yourself to just a few churches, this visit is a must in Tigray. Access to the churches is challenging, to say the least, but the panorama is spectacular throughout the hike. After a short walk across the fields at the foot of the cliff, the climb begins through a narrow, steep fault into which a natural staircase is carved. Once you've reached the first level, you can continue climbing either on the rock itself or along a winding, but less vertiginous path. Finally, after a good hour's climbing, the church's variegated facade comes into view. The interior is organized on a classical three-aisle plan, topped by a dome painted with a Greek cross motif. The arcaded walls feature a bestiary of human-headed animals, a winged monster and other more classical biblical figures and scenes. These paintings, by various artists, date from between the 13th and 17th centuries.

Not far away, along an impressive precipice, nestles the little cave church of Adouna Daniel, consisting of two richly decorated cavities. Getting there is quite magical, with an infinite panorama of splendid beauty. As the tabot has been transferred to Mariam Korkor, the sanctuary is considered abandoned. Before starting the descent, the extraordinary panorama embracing the Hausien plains, the Geralta mountains and, to the east, the Imbasneity mountains, helps you to regain your composure.

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2024

MARIAM WUKRO CHURCH

Churches cathedrals basilicas and chapels

There's nothing on the façade to suggest the refinement of the interior of the sanctuary, entirely excavated from the rock. The kené malhet (where the choir is held) and the naves are supported by openwork pillars with capitals. The domes and 9 m high ceilings are decorated with Greek crosses, and the lintels of the blind windows are in the Axumite style. Recent paintings complete the decoration. As the church is isolated (2 hours from Hawzen, or more depending on the state of the track), take a guide who will be able to contact the priest before you get there.

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2024

ABOUNA GABRA MIKAEL CHURCH

Churches cathedrals basilicas and chapels
This little-visited church is remarkably well carved and features a richly ... Read more