The largest national park in Sulawesi, it stretches over 2,290 km² between Tentena and Palu. It's also the most interesting, as much for its fairytale landscapes and undergrowth as for its mysterious Neolithic remains. There are two entry points into the natural park: Palu or Tentena. First, hike to Gimpu, a 2-day walk from Gintu, with a stopover in Moa halfway along the way. We cross the mountain to reach Moa, a small village clinging to rice-growing hills. On day 3, follow the valley at the bottom of which the Karangan River roars. Arriving at Gimpu, we're close to the Besoa valley, a day's walk to the east.

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