The Dieng plateau lies at over 2,000 m altitude. The site is often criticized, not to say denigrated, by disappointed tourists. In reality, Dieng is more atmosphere than architecture. The road that winds up the mountainside from Wonosobo is superb: terraced crops (first tobacco, then tomatoes, potatoes, asparagus, onions...) climb to the summits and cover the entire landscape. Dieng comes from "dy hyang", the "abode of the gods". The plateau is home to Java's oldest Hindu temples (Candi). Conceived as a place of pilgrimage, this 8th- and 9th-century complex was occupied by priests. Originally, access to the sacred site was via two monumental staircases. Once drained, it is now marshy again, veiled in a fairy-tale mist from which the temples emerge. From the plateau, a multitude of paths lead to lakes and sulfur springs. Fumaroles or puffs of steam escape from the bowels of the earth. The whole plateau is dotted with muddy, bubbling craters. These visions of desolation are, however, kindly offset by the flowers that grow in abundance on the plateau. As for the temples themselves, only eight have been restored. Their appearance is stocky and austere. The plateau is one of the classic itineraries offered by Yogyakarta's travel agencies. You can go there on a day trip, at the cost of a 6-hour round trip: not at all advisable. It's better to stop off in Wonosobo, where you can organize more leisurely visits and really soak up the atmosphere. In fact, the region lends itself to leisurely hikes, so you can enjoy the beautiful scenery at your leisure.

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Complexe d'Arjuna. PATRICE ALCARAS
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