Travel Guide Dar Sultan

The Kingdom of Morocco has seen a wide variety of architectural styles, and a visit to a monument is a sure-fire journey through history. Yet it's hard to imagine the splendor of the sunken palace of Dar el Baida, now known as Dar Sultan. Inscribed on the national heritage list in 2020, it played a key role in Essaouira's history over several periods. To get there, take the Agadir road for 5 km, then turn right after the bridge to take the Tangaro track (in poor condition), for 500 m. Turn right again, just past a windmill, at the mouth of the Oued Ksob, towards the village of Diabat, once known as the meeting place of the world's hippies. The legendary Jimi Hendrix is said to have fallen in love with this palace, now largely buried in the sand. Dar Sultan was built in the Andalusian style at the end of the 18th century by the Alawite sultan Sidi Mohammed ben Abdallah (1757-1790), an architecture enthusiast and fervent defender of heritage, to receive in audience the consuls and merchants based in the kasbah. Under his reign, trade flourished, as he was able to attract European traders by exempting them from customs duties. And goods such as fabrics, spices, gums, alum, dates and ostrich feathers were mainly traded in Mogador from 1764 onwards. Of the five pavilions with European-style furnishings and richly carved woodwork on the ceilings, only the ruins of one, undoubtedly the oldest, remain. At the beginning of the last century, the palace was occupied by Moulay Abderrahmane, governor of Essaouira (1822-1858), before becoming the residence of high court dignitaries on mission. Towards the end of the 19th century, the ponds and tamarisk forest surrounding the palace were replaced by dunes. The place is a splendid sight when the sun sets over the bay. Dune lovers and adventurous photographers will want to make a detour to Sidi Harraz beach. Leaving Dar Sultan, retrace your steps to Tangaro and take the forest track on your right (7 km). A veritable field of dunes stretches out as far as the eye can see for ten kilometers or so, all the way to Cape Sim. To complete the walk, you can also visit Borj el Berod, a curious ruined watchtower enthroned in the sands. Savour the moment - it's magical!