As you approach the Marloes peninsula, with its jewel-like beach, and Martin's Haven, the landscape changes: wilder coasts and hamlets. The walks offer extraordinary views from the top of the cliffs. It's certainly one of the most extraordinary walks in the area. From Martin's Haven, you can take the ferry to Skomer Island, a bird-lover's paradise. In early summer, the cormorants and puffins feed their young, beaks full of fish, and have no fear of tourists. If you're lucky, you may also spot water turtles, seals and the occasional dolphin.

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