At the entrance to Chitwan National Park, the village has taken advantage of the growing attraction of safaris to develop its hotel structure somewhat unreasonably. There are around 70 hotels, many of them small places costing less than US$10. Don't skimp on the air-conditioning for a few euros, as it's very hot and humid even at night. The luxury hotels are located 1 hour's drive from Sauraha, in the national park. Despite the busy safari season, the atmosphere in Sauraha is peaceful, especially at sunset by the river. No need to go through an agency, just book a room directly and, once there, organize your safaris at your own pace. Friendly cafés and restaurants, sometimes with live music at weekends, dot the town.The surrounding Tharu villages, with their cob houses, are quite different from anything you've seen so far. Women wear shimmering colors, buffalo invade the rivers and the mountains have given way to fields of rice and mustard.

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