With a population of around 20,000, Baños nestles at an altitude of 1,820 m in the foothills of the Andes and backs onto the slopes of the terrifying Tungurahua volcano (5,016 m). It is the last stop on the mountain range before the Amazon (Oriente). The climate is mild and humid, and with abundant rainfall, the tropical vegetation is exuberant. This little natural paradise has a gentle atmosphere that generally charms passing travellers, and many foreigners have made it their home. The spa boasts hot springs with curative properties, which were the reason for the town's foundation in 1944. Thanks to its success, Baños lives peacefully to the rhythm of Ecuadorian and foreign tourism... depending on the moods of the majestic and capricious Tungurahua volcano, which dominates the entire valley. This once-dormant giant suddenly awoke in 1999, spitting out sprays of fire over Baños. Its crater is located less than 10 km from the town! Since then, Tungurahua has been in constant activity, erupting frequently. As a precaution against possible eruptions, the town issues constant warnings and posts evacuation plans on its walls. The volcano remains under the watchful eye of volcanologists, who are generally able to predict a possible eruption. "Mama Tungurahua", as it's known here, looms over the town like a sword hanging over Damocles' head, but despite this, optimism reigns supreme in Baños.Like all tourist hotspots, Baños is full of stores that compete fiercely with one another. Bars, restaurants and tourist agencies line the pedestrianized Rue Ambato. One of the region's handicrafts specialties is balsa, an extremely light wood of Amazonian origin, carved and painted, usually in the shape of parrots or toucans. Gourmets will be tempted by local sweets: alfeñique and melcocha, made from panela and cane sugar. The latter is prepared by hand, and you're sure to see specialists beating a thick, colorful paste at the entrance to their shops.But the main attraction of Baños is undoubtedly its wide range of activities. Nestled in the Río Pastaza valley, also known as the Valley of Waterfalls, the town is ideal for outdoor adventure sports. In this idyllic setting, hiking, horse-riding, rafting, mountain biking, bungee jumping and abseiling down waterfalls (canyoning) are all on the list of leisure activities offered by most travel agencies. As the last mountain bastion before the jungle, Baños is visited by tourists travelling to and from the Oriente. It's a good starting point for excursions into the Amazon rainforest.The patron saint fiestas in honor of the Virgin of the Rosario de Santa Agua take place in October. In mid-December (December 8 to 16), each district organizes its own festivities, again in honor of the Virgin (Cantonizacion de Baño). February sees the Carnaval de la Caña (with folk parades and melcocha tasting).

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Baños. Boyd Hendrikse - Shutterstock.com
Le Mirador de la Cruz de Bellavista et sa vue plongeante sur la ville. Stéphan SZEREMETA
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