At 32 km from São Filipe, and at an altitude of 1,800 m, it is the central part of the volcano that gives the sensation of arriving in another space-time, impressive in its silence. The Pico overlooks the whole with all its mighty height; the caldera is covered with different lava flows that are superimposed (the oldest ones are centuries old). It is a space out of time, an absolute minerality... But, contrary to what one could believe, the volcano is a blessing for the locals since it makes the grounds very fertile. Inside this unreal space, there were once two tiny hamlets, Portela and Bangaeira, inhabited by about 850 people, which were engulfed by lava during the last eruption in 2015. From them still emerge the roofs of some houses, a grand and Dantesque image.The low houses made of lava stone and the black color that reigns as far as the eye can see make this place has no equivalent in the world. The villagers cultivate vines, fruit trees and vegetables and when the rain falls, a green carpet is drawn. It is in this region that you can meet the descendants of Count Armand de Montrond, who brought an indelible French touch to Fogo by settling here 150 years ago and having a large progeny. It is also here that you can buy the famous wine of Fogo, the manecom, very fruity; be careful, it hits a little hard. You can also find several sellers of coffee, cheese, jams and red pepper, other very local specialties. According to experts, the coffee of Fogo has the reputation of being one of the best in the world.It is probably the only example of a population that remains in the crater of an active volcano; despite the immense difficulties of living there day by day, the men and women of Chã das Caldeiras refuse to leave, and rebuild - without any help - their houses. One would expect to meet hard and rough people: it is not so. They are as warm as the soil of their native island.There are many hard-to-reach places in the world, but there are also other, much rarer places that are hard to get away from: Chã das Caldeiras is one of them. Sodade, Fogo Nha Cretcheu!

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Pictures and images Chã Das Caldeiras

Village en reconstruction sur la lave, Chã das Caldeiras. Christophe SIMS
De jeunes soeurs jouent après l'école dans les rues du village de Chã das Caldeiras. Charline REDIN
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