Ribeira da Barca is a small and remote fishing village nestled in a valley where mangoes, oranges and coconut trees grow. When the beneficial rain finally arrives, the water cascades down the valley floor and into the tortured canyons. Nearby is the local "attraction", which must be visited if only for the walk: the volcanic cave of Aguas Belas, a cavity carved in the rock that provides a beach that encourages swimming. A 30-minute boat trip will take you there: for this, call the only serious contact, Sety Martins. Beware of the rough sea!

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