Several Cesária Evora songs refer to Salamansa. A typical fishing village, it lies to the north of the island, on the road leading to Baia das Gatas (a 1-hour walk away). Some 2,000 people live here, and you'll notice many mischievous children playing in the alleys. If you'd like to rub shoulders with fishermen and learn about their way of life, ask them to take you out to sea, an experience you can round off with grilled fish and lambis. Today, the superb white-sand beach is increasingly popular with kitesurfers. But the sea is often rough, so caution is advised.

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