"Anyone who doesn't know Mindelo doesn't know Cape Verde", sang the prolific songwriter Manuel de Novas in one of his nostalgic mornas. It was also here that her compatriot Cesária Evora, the "barefoot diva", was born and died. Mindelo is the country's cultural capital: cosmopolitan, festive and artistic. The town began to take off in 1838, when an English firm set up a coal depot here. The port became a perfect stopover for ships on their way to Brazil. By the end of the 19th century, no fewer than 1,500 ships, flying flags from all over the world, anchored in the deep natural waters of the port every year. Trade flourished here, and there was competition between Mindelo and Praia, but in the end it was Praia that was chosen to become the administrative capital of Cape Verde. Times change as coal begins to be replaced by oil. Mindelo lost its economic outlets, but nevertheless cultivated its artistic fibre, a springboard for nascent tourism. With the creation of a telegraph center between Europe and Brazil and the passage of many sailors, the port established its international reputation, sometimes festive, sometimes licentious. Geographically, the city is set in a well-structured bay, with spacious squares, wide avenues and lively, bustling neighborhoods. A touch of "Britishness", with its preserved colonial buildings, gives it an added old-fashioned charm. Look out for the sobrados, Portuguese colonial buildings, often in pastel colors. Some of them have been restored and transformed into charming guest houses. Not to be missed in Mindelo: the replica of the Belém tower at the end of the esplanade, where you can see exhibitions, and the Governor's Palace, which will dazzle you with its shades of pink and yellow (unfortunately, it's not open to the public). You can also visit the city's oldest square, Praçinha de Igreja ("Church Square"). Not to be missed: the much-loved Rue de Lisboa, where you'll find bars and restaurants that are always busy. Last but not least, Place Amilcar Cabral is the place to be for night owls. The hub of the evening, it's also the heart of the carnival festivities that all Mindelenses pride themselves on. Mindelo's markets are also typical of the area. The fish market is probably the most picturesque and guarantees total immersion in local life. In a cheerful hustle and bustle, you can see impressive specimens of tuna, a wide variety of fish. All along this avenue, the decrepit buildings have retained their colonial appearance, and a general renovation including the creation of a public square would add even more charm to the area, which has everything it takes to become a tourist mecca. With its piano bars, restaurants, ice-cream parlours, amusement arcades, tree-lined pedestrian walkways and benches facing the sea, where young people like to flirt, this avenue, which stretches all the way to Laginha beach, is an extremely pleasant walk. The vegetable market, housed in an architecturally splendid building, can be viewed from two storeys above the shopping arcade. Another highlight is the Praça Estrela "Place de l'Etoile" market, home to a huge bazaar selling everything from clothes and shoes to cameras, miracle ointments, scented hair creams, shark's teeth, wicker baskets and Awalé game boards... The stalls are mostly manned by African traders from neighboring West Africa, Senegal, Mali, Guinea... and Cape Verdean mamas. You'll see some interesting azulejos, the famous Portuguese paintings traditionally made in blue and white ceramics. Finally, take a stroll through the brand-new marina, where restaurants and boutiques have sprung up; you can even enjoy the swimming pool, for a few escudos. Mindelo is the cradle of Cape Verdean culture, and abounds in artists of all kinds: singers and musicians, of course, but also painters, sculptors, poets who have not yet disappeared... You can stop off at the small National Crafts Centre, behind the Place Amilcar Cabral. It gives artists the opportunity to exhibit their weaving creations, notably batik, as well as basketry, paintings, model boats and reproductions of art brut: vehicles made from recycled tin cans, in the spirit of naive African creations. We can't leave the city without mentioning the bay, said to be one of the most beautiful in the world, which we'll never tire of admiring. You'll have to climb to the top to take in the breathtaking panorama. Mindelo may have lost its economic clout and strategic role over time, but not its seductive power or light-hearted mood.

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Baie de Mindelo Abdesslam Benzitouni
Bateau traditionnel de pêche. Camille ESMIEU
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