Lodi, a small, quiet town south-east of Milan, has been at the heart of history on several occasions. Rebuilt by Barbarossa in 1158, crossed by Napoleon on its legendary bridge, the city is now open to the contemporary world. Architects such as Renzo Piano have helped to modernise its urban planning; avant-garde buildings now stand alongside the beautiful Liberty facades of the early 20th century. The town's nerve centre, Piazza della Vittoria, smells of provincial poetry, with its stalls and café terraces. In the heart of an agricultural region, it is here that grana padano, the Lombardy parmesan cheese, is produced.

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