Volcanoes, valleys and forests that line its green hinterland dotted with stone villages, line a coastline that is sometimes tamed, sometimes wild, pierced by sandy coves, bathed in turquoise water and punctuated by fishing villages. While the province of Girona - in the north of Catalonia - is best known for its rocky coasts and golden sand that give it its postcard beauty, it is with astonishment that we will discover the heritage of the civilisations that built its foundations, raised its cities and furnished its streets with architectural masterpieces. From the remains inherited from the first cultures to the grand entrance into the era of modernism, each stone transmits a history to those who know how to listen. 2018 is the year of cultural tourism in Catalonia and on this occasion, the province of Girona offers us an invigorating cultural bath
In the footsteps of the first civilizations
More than five thousand years ago, the first inhabitants of the province of Girona left fascinating remains here and there. From the Albera mountain range to the hinterland regions, the countryside of the megalithic roads will be beaten, dotted with enigmatic remains. If the granite tomb of Creu d'en Cobertella is the largest of the Catalan dolmens, the "Grotte de Daina", discovered in the town of Romanyà, is one of the best preserved megalithic remains in the region. Before the arrival of the Greeks and the Romanization of the peninsula against the backdrop of the Punic Wars, the Iberians, an indigenous people, were already building amazing villages. The Iberian village of Ullastret, in the Baix Empordà, founded more than 2,500 years ago, is the largest in Catalonia. To explore the mystics of antiquity, we will also explore the remains of the Greek city of Rhodes, hidden within the walls of the citadel of Roses built by Charles V, before heading for the site of Empúrie. Facing a topaz sea surrounded by beaches and idyllic coves, the statue of Asclepius - Greek god of medicine - watches over the remains of what was once one of the region's main commercial ports
From sacred spaces to impregnable fortresses
From monasteries to noble residences, regional medieval architecture has elevated Romanesque art to the rank of divine essence. The exquisite beauty of its historical witnesses can be seen in the stone, the harmony of the cloisters, the beauty of the portals and the sculpted capitals. It must be said that the region is full of buildings of the same style and one will not hesitate to mention the Benedictine monastery of Sant Pere de Rodes and that of Santa Maria de Ripoll, whose elaborate portal - listed as a UNESCO heritage site - is rightly considered a true sculpted Bible. Historical bearers, the castles and fortresses that flourished during Catalonia's glory days are just as important: the old town of Tossa de Mar is the only fortified maritime village in Catalonia, while the impressive castle of Sant Ferran de Figueres, from the top of its eminence, boasts of being the largest fortress in Europe. Throughout the province, medieval villages distill the timeless charm of old stones. With your nose in the wind, you will stroll through the cobbled streets of Besalú, the fortified town of Peratallada, the medieval district of Pals or Santa Pau, dotted with stone buildings, which will serve as a pretext to visit the enchanting volcanic park of La Garrotxa
Girona, a city of charm and history
Strolling through the old quarter of Girona, the provincial capital founded by the Romans more than 2,000 years ago, is an opportunity for a real cultural bath. Undoubtedly the many sieges that the city experienced, until the breakthrough of Napoleonic troops who seized it in 1809, forged its destiny as a flourishing city. The mad charms operate from the banks of the Onyar, brightened up by heterogeneous coloured facades shimmering on the still waters of the river that crosses it. Among the eleven bridges that defy the irascible river, it is by far the Peixateries Velles red bridge, designed by Gustave Eiffel, that residents have chosen their favourite.
With a curious look, we will then head for one of the best preserved Jewish districts in Europe, called "the call". It magically unfolds its maze of cobbled alleys with medieval labyrinth-like tunes. A stop at the Museum of Jewish History in Girona, located in the former synagogue, invites you to discover the legacies of Jewish Girona before the expulsion of the community in 1492. Majestic, imposing, Santa Maria Cathedral is the leading figure of the Força Vella. On her square are the fans of Game of Thrones who saw her immortalized on the small screen. Preceded by a monumental staircase, the building boasts the largest Gothic nave in the world after the one in Saint-Pierre-de-Rome. Every November 1st, its 92 steps are transformed into a theatre: the Marrecs perpetuate the tradition of castells by raising gigantic human pyramids. Rhythmic by fairs and popular celebrations, the little pearl of the Catalan countryside shines with its cultural effervescence
A plunge into modernity
At the end of the 19th century, Catalonia entered the modernist era, flooding cities with art and beauty. Carried by the Industrial Revolution, the prosperous bourgeoisie let itself be seduced by a colourful style with undulating shapes ready to intrude into the smallest corners of new architecture. Antoni Gaudí is the undisputed master of it and made the Barcelona capital a sumptuous showcase of style. You will discover with equal wonder the unsuspected treasures of the Gerona province, from the works of Rafael Masó, which beautify the streets of the capital, to the superb modernist baths of Vichy Catalan in Caldes de Malavella, passing through the cities of Sant Feliu de Guíxols, Figueres, Lloret de Mar or Olot which are also worth a visit. We also owe to the "Indianos", those Spaniards in search of fortune expatriates for a time in the New World, the construction of superb residences in the Cuban style to discover by following the Network of Indian Cities. But no other personality has left its mark on the region with as much claw as the country's child with the extravagant moustache. Salvador Dalí, for example, made his first cry in Figueres in 1904. The funny genius of surrealism, from which emanates a sweet and ingenious madness, is to be discovered at the whim of the Dalinian Triangle, which includes the amazing Dalí Museum in Figueres, the Gala Dalí Castle in Púbol and the Dalí House-Museum in Portlligat
Festivities and secular traditions
From the small sleepy villages to the provincial capital, the region, steeped in tradition, is tireless in terms of festivals, always ready to reveal its most beautiful ceremonies, provoke chance encounters, promote its culture. In the four corners of the region, ancestral know-how is transformed into works of art: ceramics, basketry, woodworking, wrought iron, cork... The craftsmen passionately perpetuate immemorial traditions that have survived for centuries. In Olot, in the Museum of Saints, we will discover for example, not without curiosity, the processes of making santons. But there is no better way to immerse yourself in local culture than to twirl around in the festive atmosphere of the region. Marvel at the parades of giants, the living nativity scenes, experience the fervour of the inhabitants to the rhythm of the patron saint's festivals, celebrate spring at the Girona Flower Festival, relive the medieval era, see death dance in Verges, the sky sparkle with a thousand lights in Blanes (as part of the international fireworks competition), listen to the music vibrate in the enclosure of a Romanesque cloister... The Geronese culture in everyone finds a resonance.
Smart info
When? When? The climate allows visitors to visit all year round. There are also many festivities and other events that take place throughout the seasons. And while cooler winter temperatures are to be expected in mountainous regions, the sun never stays away for long. Spring and autumn remain the most pleasant seasons.
Getting there. Many planes fly daily between France and Barcelona, from where you can take the road. In high season, direct flights to Girona with Ryanair. It will take 5 hours 45 minutes for a Paris-Girona TGV, 6 hours 20 minutes for a Paris-Barcelona. For the bus, which is longer but more economical, we will turn to Euroline.
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