The beautiful scenery around Lake Debar suggests a pleasant stopover between Mavrovo National Park and Ohrid. It's true that Debar was renowned for its mijak craftsmen, Macedonian painters, cabinetmakers and masons who created superb church decorations in the 19th century. So much so that it was said that "if Constantinople collapsed, Debar would rebuild it". Alas, it was Debar who collapsed. Victim of an earthquake in 1967, all that remains of the city is a small Ottoman-period quarter around the Hunkar mosque. A further disappointment is to be found in the pretty neighboring region of Albania. Admittedly, it has the same (Albanian) name as the town (Dibër/Dibra), but the roads there are so bad that it's better to enter Albania via the border crossings at Lake Ohrid.

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