The capital of the island of Bintan, it's a haven for wealthy tourists before the island becomes a new Bali (which would be very surprising!). The town, the second largest in the Riau archipelago after Batam, is cute and clean, although some people in Chinatown will try to get you to pay for everything in dollars, just to take advantage of the advantageous exchange rates. Still, there are some very nice beaches for beach lovers. Pelni's offices are outside town; you can get there by bemo. The Rinjani calls at Kijang, 15 kilometers from Tanjung Pinang, every other Sunday, before heading for Java, Sulawesi, the Moluccas and New Guinea. To find out exactly which day, consult the Indonesian tourist office in Singapore, Ocean Building or the Batam tourist office.

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