Twenty kilometers north of Curtea de Argeș, the commune of Arefu, set back a little from the road, is home to a pretty 19th-century wooden church. But the main attraction is the ruins of the Poienari citadel, where Vlad Ţepeş lived. It's reached by a staircase of some 1,400 steps, which starts near the hydroelectric station, a little past the village of Căpățânenii Pământeni. The citadel also marks the entrance to the mythical Transfăgărășan road. Along the way, shortly after Poienari, you'll see the imposing Vidraru dam, 165 m high and 300 m long. The artificial lake it created, 14 km long, offers superb panoramic views.

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