If some people think Quebec is synonymous with North Americanized cuisine, a quick trip to this side of the Atlantic will convince them otherwise. Quebec is a happy mix of rich, comforting traditional cuisine, fast-food and locally flavoured specialties-including the indisputable poutine, which now comes in a multitude of varieties-and new trends that focus on proximity, seasonality and boreal forest products, not to mention a culinary scene that showcases great chefs and their successors. In the capital, Quebec's gastronomy has nothing to envy to that of its Montreal cousin, quite the contrary. Whether you're in the mood for traditional or even aboriginal cuisine, a gourmet meal at one of the city's best tables, flavours from around the world or products from the region, you'll have no trouble finding your own guilty pleasure.
Traditional cuisine
These are the typical recipes passed down from generation to generation, dishes eaten mainly at family tables during parties and gatherings and in certain restaurants specializing in traditional cuisine. Imported by the first settlers, traditional Quebecois cuisine has adapted to the province's harsh climate, integrating root vegetables, game and farmed meat for a high-calorie result: gourganes (large beans) or yellow pea soup with salt pork, crêtons (ground pork terrine resembling rillettes), beans with bacon, duck with maple syrup, rabbit gibelotte with cider, leg stew (pork legs, potatoes and spices), pork meatball stew cipaille (sipaille, cipâte - potato meat pie), and various tourtières (pies), originally made with game, now made with mixed pork and veal, with recipes that vary from region to region (the best known : the Lac-Saint-Jean tourtière). Sweet tooths will crown this hearty meal with a slice of sugar pie or a pudding. To discover traditional Quebec cuisine, three addresses are highly recommended, all in Old Quebec: Aux Anciens Canadiens, Buffet de l'Antiquaire and La Bûche. The sugar shacks also showcase this type of cuisine, all topped with maple syrup of course. If you enjoyed the experience and would like to get your hands dirty once you get home: recettes.qc.ca/dossiers/cuisine-du-monde/dossier/quebec
New trends
Quebec chefs have now taken on the mandate of cooking in a local, available and seasonal way. In winter, needless to say, this concept presents some difficulties. Some chefs will also cook with local beers or spirits, bake their own fresh homemade bread, or set up gardens behind the restaurant or on the roof to grow their own vegetables and herbs. Some have even gone so far as to have an urban beehive to harvest local honey. Market cuisine has become a must, and can easily be found in the region's good restaurants.
Another major trend in the province's capital is northern cuisine featuring game, fish and other products of the boreal forest, which are seasonal and harvested. Among these, wild mushrooms (chanterelle, orange boletus, oyster mushroom, American boletus...), forest vegetables and berries (saskatoon, sea buckthorn, wild blueberry, camerise, chicory, squash, root vegetables, elderberry...), edible plants and flowers (e.g., wild mushrooms, wild mushrooms, wild mushrooms, and wild mushrooms)), edible plants and flowers (milkweed, monarda, tansy...), northern nuts (black walnut, butternut, heartnut...), teas and herbal teas (wintergreen, Labrador tea...) or spices and aromatics (balsam myrtle, samphire...). To discover this cuisine, the restaurants
Chez Boulay,
La Tanière and its little brother
Légende are highly recommended, as is the restaurant La Traite in Wendake, which offers a Native-style experience.
Agrotourism
The Quebec City region rolls out the red carpet for tasty regional products, and when you think of agrotourism in this region, you immediately think of Île d'Orléans. Located barely 10 km northwest of Quebec City, in the middle of the St. Lawrence River, it is a dream come true for gourmands and lovers of bucolic landscapes. Of course, the producers open their doors to visitors and there is always a store where you can stock up on goodies. One only has to think of La Ferme d'Oc and its Roulotte du Coin, Cassis Monna & Filles - economuseum of liquor, or the Chocolaterie de l'Île d'Orléans. On Île d'Orléans, a local certification exists for agricultural and processed products proving that they are recognized for their origin, the know-how of the companies and their quality (savoirfaire.iledorleans.com). Look for the logo! But whether it's here or elsewhere in the region (Portneuf, Jacques-Cartier or Côte-de-Beaupré), local flavors are definitely on the menu, from livestock and vegetable farms, cheese factories, bakeries and pastry shops, chocolate and candy shops, maple groves, microbreweries, vineyards, cider and distilleries, and other specialties.
If
you
can't venture beyond the city limits, take a look at the recently opened
Grand Marché de Québec, home to more than 100 producers, processors and artisans. There are also several gourmet stores in the various neighborhoods of the capital, including the more than 100-year-old
Épicerie J.A. Moisan, which is worth a visit in itself.
Gourmet tours
Those who prefer to be guided in an all-inclusive formula will opt for the gourmet tours. On foot or by bus, in a given neighbourhood or in a not-so-far-away land, they allow you to discover not only local products and good restaurants, but also to learn more about the artisans who are behind all these gourmet creations. Some of them, such as the Epicurean Journeys of CELEB Events, will take you to several neighborhoods off the beaten path. Cicerone also offers a historical portion for its History & Terroir tour in Old Quebec. Others choose a very specific theme, as with Broue-Tours, whose name leaves no doubt that craft beer is at the heart of the concept of this small guided tour company. On the program: three microbreweries, nine tastings, a brewhouse and lots of anecdotes and interesting facts about the history of beer in the Quebec capital. If you want to get away from the city, Quebec Bus Tours offers two trips to Île d'Orléans: the first one to discover the flavors of the island and the second one to follow the local wine route.
Enjoying yourself Québec
Timetable Québec
There are no more variable schedules than those in the restaurant world. Not only do they vary according to the season, but also several times during the same season. Restaurants in large cities such as Quebec City tend to have a relatively fixed schedule throughout the year, while in the regions, some establishments even close their doors out of season. And as everywhere, weekends and holidays are synonymous with great crowds, especially for the famous brunch served until 2 or 3 pm. It also means that Quebecers eat earlier than Europeans. Therefore, the opening hours of the kitchens are not very late, except for pub-type restaurants.
Budget & Tips Québec
You can easily eat on the go for less than $10-15 CDN. The minimum charge is $20.00 CDN for lunch and $30.00 CDN for dinner. The daily lunch menu and the table d'hôte in the evening allow you to save some money and include the starter, main course, dessert and coffee. More upscale restaurants also often offer a multi-course tasting menu. The cost can range from $60 to $150 CDN or more, and a pairing with selected wines is offered in addition.
All methods of payment are accepted, but smaller restaurants sometimes limit themselves to cash and/or debit card.
In Quebec, you can also take home the rest of your meal or bring your own bottle of wine - or beer - to the restaurant. The "Bring your own wine" concept is indeed quite common, especially since there is no corkage fee to pay.
What costs extra Québec
As a general rule, prices on menus are always exclusive of tax. Not only do you have to add the taxes (14.975%), but also the 15% service charge. To find out what you have to pay, you have to add almost 30% to the price!
The local way Québec
Eat a poutine at 3am, when leaving bars or after a drunken evening with friends at home. You can almost always find a 24-hour snack bar to satisfy your cravings, anywhere in the region.
Set aside a large table in a sugar shack in the spring to make you bomb until you're hungry.
Getting used to the often gigantic North American-style portions, especially in pubs and sports breweries.
To be avoided Québec
Just because we're in America doesn't mean we have to be like the Americans! So please avoid the big fast food banners and opt for local tables to savour Quebec.
Kids Québec
Your kids are welcome in most restaurants, except in sections where a bar license applies. Extra chairs are often available and several restaurants offer a menu specially concocted for the little ones.
Smokers Québec
Smoking is not permitted in the restaurants and on their terraces. Smoking is also required 9 metres from the door of the establishment, although some people do not respect this distance.
Tourist traps Québec
In areas popular with visitors such as Old Quebec City, take the time to compare restaurants and menus, as many tend to boost their prices to take advantage of the tourist boom.
Take a break Québec
Timetable Québec
Gourmet shops (pastry shops, chocolate shops, etc.), cafés and tea rooms are generally open every day, from morning until mid or late afternoon (some may be open until evening, especially cafés). However, there may be some days off in the smaller shops or in the regions, usually at the beginning of the week. The schedule may also be reduced in the off-season. As for bars, many of them open as early as 11am or noon, especially in the city. Otherwise, you can expect them to open mid to late afternoon at the latest. Closing time is usually 3am, but some close earlier (midnight or 1am) at the beginning of the week or out of season. While they tend to be open 7 days a week, there are some closing days (e.g. Sunday, Monday, Tuesday), especially in the regions
Budget & Tips Québec
Prices for gourmet breaks and alcoholic beverages are relatively similar to those in Europe, although a bit more expensive even with the exchange rate. To save money, there are passports sold at low prices that allow you to visit a predetermined number of participating establishments in Quebec and get a free tasting or a free drink (tip not included). This is the case with the Je bois local passport (jeboislocal.ca) for microbreweries and craft breweries and the Circuit des vignobles passport (circuitdesvignobles.com) for vineyards, cider houses and distilleries.
It is important to remember that the prices listed are generally exclusive of taxes. Not only do you have to add taxes (14.975%) but also the 15% service charge. All methods of payment are accepted, but small businesses sometimes limit themselves to cash and/or debit card.
Age restrictions Québec
In Quebec, the legal drinking age is 18. Wherever a bar license applies, only adults are allowed to drink. However, some places hold a different licence (restaurant, artisanal production, etc.) that allows minors to be admitted. Note that if you look under 25, you will probably be asked for an official photo ID card.
What's very local Québec
In bars and brasseries, the happy hour ritual is often held during the week, here called happy hour. It usually takes place from 4 or 5 p.m. until 7 p.m. or even later, and saves on alcohol and/or food. It goes without saying that the crowds go hand in hand during a happy hour...
Kids Québec
Children are accepted wherever a bar license is not in effect. However, they can sometimes be accepted on the terrace of a bar until early evening.
Smokers Québec
Smoking is not permitted in the gourmet shops, cafés, tea rooms and bars and on their terraces. Smoking is also required 9 metres from the door of the establishment, although some people do not respect this distance.
