Travel Guide Varkala

population: 40,050. Varkala is famous in India for its 2,000-year-old Janardhanaswamy temple and the Sivagiri Mutt pilgrimage site. For foreign visitors, however, it's the superb beaches and bohemian atmosphere for which it's famous. The town of Varkala, further inland, is of little interest to tourists. It's at Varkala Beach, along the cliffs, that activities are concentrated.This spectacular cliff, with its many resorts, is Varkala's picture postcard. It's not uncommon to spot dolphins from your restaurant table, sitting in front of grilled fish and seafood from the day's catch. The beaches, Papanasam Beach to the south and Black Beach to the north, stretch around the cliff. Papanasam Beach is more popular with Indian tourists and families, while Black Beach, named after its black sand, attracts more foreign youth. Beware, they are dangerous! Sometimes, depending on the season, only one of the two is passable. Further north, around 7 km from the town, lies the superb beach of Kappil.In Varkala, in low season, you can relax, swim, eat (rather well) and sleep. Many yoga classes are held early in the morning and at dusk on the beach. It's only at the end of November that Varkala really fills up and prices start to soar, until January and February, when things calm down again. Despite the natural beauty of the beaches, it's all too obvious that the Tourism Department hasn't paid much attention to the site. The cliffs are gradually crumbling, but protective measures have recently been taken. Better late than never!Varkala is also one of the most dangerous beaches in Kerala, due to its violent underwater currents. Ask the lifeguards for advice.