Mandu is a small village of 5,000 souls perched on a Malwa plateau, 663 meters above sea level. Traces of the town can be found in Sanskrit texts dating back to 555 BC. Its golden age began in the 15th century when the Afghan Dilawar Khan, governor of Malwa, founded his small kingdom. His son moved the capital from Dhar to Mandu and began building the capital. Thirty years later, Muhammad Khalji took over the kingdom and continued the work begun by his predecessors during his thirty-year reign. His son Ghiyath ud-Din, a lover of women and music, maintained a sizeable harem for his own pleasures. Mandu then fell into the hands of Bahadur Shah of Gujarat, then Humayun, who enjoyed it so much that he lived there for some time. Then came Akbar, in 1570, who integrated Mandu into his Mughal kingdom, while leaving it a certain degree of independence. It wasn't until the Marathas took over the kingdom in 1732, and moved the Malwa capital back to Dhar, that Mandu fell into oblivion.Today, Mandu has a bucolic soul and many remains of ruined mosques and palaces. It's well worth spending a couple of days here, or more if you're in the mood for tranquillity. On the other hand, hotel accommodation is rather limited.

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