The 600-metre-high Shatrunjaya hill, whose name means "Place of Victory", dominates the charming village of Palitana. It is one of the five sacred mountains for the Jains. After an hour-and-a-half ascent (if you're a good walker) and 3,950 calf-high steps, you'll discover this marvel of India, home to 863 white marble temples. The priests who officiate in the Shatrunjaya temples breathe bliss: in the morning, they adorn the statues with flowers ( angi ceremony), then bathe them, before honoring them during the puja and adorning them with jewels. Around 5.30pm, they put them away from prying eyes, close the shutters and padlock the temple doors. A place of meditation for pilgrims, it's a magical site for others. Not to be missed.In January 2010, the Dalai Lama came to Palitana, where he gave a lecture declaring, among other things, that "Jainism and Buddhism are like twin brothers who have brought with them the message of unity and non-violence for the world."

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