BAZARS

A visit to the bazaars will take up a good part of your walk in old Jaipur. Despite the deafening horns that punctuate the daily life of modern India, the buzzing alleys of the old city have retained the magic of the past. However, as in all tourist places, you will be approached by touts in charge of bringing customers to dubious stores. More than anywhere else in Rajasthan, beware of scammers. You can hire a local guide for your visit, for more peace of mind.

Start your visit at Johari Bazar (Jewelers' Bazaar), the main street on the right as you reach the Hawa Mahal (Bari Chaupar) intersection from the City Palace. It still has many jewelry stalls, mixed with textile or confectionery stores (consumer items very popular with the rajasthani bourgeoisie, as evidenced by their extra kilos). At the top left of the avenue, a terrace near a small temple offers a superb view (especially in the morning) of the Hawa Mahal... and the hustle and bustle of the intersection. The first alley on the right of the avenue is still closed to scooters.

This picturesque set of stores displays wonderful displays of saris and salwar-kameez (tunics). The Jama Masjid mosque (on the right side, 200 m after the crossroads) is only of secondary interest, despite its beautiful pink facade and its minarets. Located in a predominantly Hindu neighborhood, it nevertheless testifies to the relative harmony reigning between the various faiths.

Venture into the alleys adjacent to Johari Bazar. They still shelter pleasant haveli, often hidden behind dilapidated walls. Some of these beautiful homes still have murals, unfortunately damaged. Their owners do not seem to care about these decorative details.

Then go back to the main avenue, to the intersection before the City Palace (Chhoti Chaupar). At the corner of the avenue going north (Gangauri Bazar), two small Vishnuite temples show beautiful frescoes evoking the adventures of Krishna (leave your shoes at the entrance of the courtyard). Go up Gangauri Bazar for about 300 m, to the Saras Sadan Haveli (ask for the Vidhya Vihar School). The courtyard of this beautiful mansion built in the late 19th century by Ram Singh II, which is denatured by an ugly fence, opens onto a luxury handicraft store. Do not hesitate to enter to admire the gilded murals (free entrance).