Travel Guide Safi

Safi is a city of contrasts. It is both a major industrial and economic center, with the country's second-largest port for canned sardines and phosphate factories. Safi is split in two. On one side, the old town with its souk, ramparts and budget hotels. On the other, the new town, the administrative center and upscale hotels. Gas stations, banks and cash dispensers, cinemas, post office and tea rooms are all close to the Place de l'Indépendance. Occupied for a short time by the Portuguese, it retains the famous Qasr el-Bahr and its magnificent ramparts, which encircle the souk. The town is also renowned for its pottery, which you can watch being made in the eponymous district. It's not as touristy as Essaouira, but it's well worth a visit. Only two trains pass through Safi each day, one early in the morning and the other late in the afternoon. The station is located a few kilometers south of the city center. You can get there by local bus or cab. If you want to get to Casa Voyageurs, allow around 4 hours for the journey. If you prefer the bus, CTM offers 8 departures a day from Casa. As is often the case, budget hotels are all located near the seafront entrance to the medina. The higher-category hotels are located in the new town. As for restaurants, you'll find gargotes serving excellent grilled sardines on the side of Potters' Hill.