The famous playwright Yevgeny Grishkovets from Kemerovo paints an unattractive, coal-rimmed portrait of it. The capital of the Kuzbass (560,000 inhabitants), the largest coalfield in Russia, is reputed to be smoky, polluted, over-industrialized, but also disconcerting. Once past the atmosphere of a factory town, you fall under its discreet and mysterious charm. An architectural decor, certainly recent, full of nuggets, between soviet buildings and administrative buildings with grandiose classicism, where the rich and dynamic cultural life is in full swing, will make you want to extend your stay against all odds. It is a confusing stop off the beaten track of the Trans-Siberian Railway.

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