Monuments to visit Prague

This little jewel of late ^20th-century architecture is located at the entrance to the Jiraskův bridge on the right bank of the Jiráskovo Nám. at the end of the Masaryk quay. It stands on a site that was bombed by the Allies in 1945 and remained a wasteland until the late 1980s. This nickname in fact conceals a more official and much more sober name: Dutch National Building. This strikingly curved house blends surprisingly well with the rather Secession-style buildings on the surrounding quayside. In particular, its transparent metal sphere is reminiscent of the materials used in the Art Nouveau style. Its unique shape was designed by Czech architect V. Milunič and American architect F.-O. Gehry. It's a fine example of deconstruction architecture, with its transparent veil revealing its twisted structure made of massive reinforced concrete columns. The curved, glazed section adjoins the concrete, evoking a changing couple and earning the building its nickname of "the dancing house". Unique and phenomenal, it has been featured on the cover of many an architectural book and, much photographed, is fast becoming another symbol of the Czech capital. You can't visit the interior, but you can try to book a table at Ginger & Fred, on the top floor, an upmarket restaurant offering excellent fusion cuisine and, of course, a sumptuous view embracing the Vltava, Petřín Hill and the castle.

This tower, which can be seen from the city centre, is very similar to the Paris Eiffel Tower. It is indeed a copy built for the Universal Exhibition in 1891, which is at the same height as the Parisian tower... by counting the height of the hill! It is accessible to visitors who want to climb its 299 spiral staircases that turn in the sole foot of the tower. From the height of its 60 m, you have the whole city at your feet.

This magnificent building was built between 1906 and 1911 according to the plans of Antonin Balšánek and Osvald Polívka on the site where the royal court was located in the 14th century. That is why the Royal Route began here, because the crowned heads started from Prašná Brána, the Powder Tower, which adjoins the town house, their crossing from the city to Prague Castle via the Charles Bridge. It is a monumental building, a pure product of the Secession, decorated by the greatest Czech artists of this movement, including Mucha, Aleš, Preisler, Švabinský, Šaloun and many others. It is entered through a rotunda from which two large wings develop. A lot of care is taken in the details: drawing of curtains, light fixtures, door handles, etc. The building, which is sometimes used for congresses or conferences, is home above all to the Czech Philharmonic, which offers a varied programme almost every evening in the impressive 1,500-seat concert hall, known as the Smetana Hall.

It is also the venue where the Pražké Jaro International Music Festival, the Prague Spring, is launched every year to the sound of Má Vlast de Smetana. Gourmands will also find something to eat with, in the basement, a typical restaurant with its wooden tables and pints of draught beer, and on the ground floor a café and a French restaurant. If coffee is worth a visit for its decoration, it is better to leave it at that: consumption is not up to par, unlike the price..

Art Nouveau characterizes this building from both inside and out, and the vicinity of the Gothic Powder Tower, which was renovated at great expense between 1994 and 1997, only underlines its beauty. The place also has great historical significance: it is indeed here that the Czechoslovak Republic was proclaimed on 28 October 1918. It was also here in November 1989 that representatives of the communist government met for the first time with the opponents of the Civic Forum, of which Václav Havel had taken the lead. Behind Obecní Dům, several Secession-style buildings have taken place on the gigantic grounds liberated by the former royal court of the Bohemian rulers. Among them, the hotel Pařiz, rather neo-Gothic in appearance, is also influenced by the Jugendstil, as evidenced by the decoration of its restaurants.

Vyšehrad, which means "Castle of the Heights," was the first stronghold of the Bohemian kings in the 11th and 12th centuries, before it was supplanted by Hradčany. A legend says that this is where the history of Prague actually began. It says that the Czech kings chose this place to build their seat and that it was from here that Countess Libuše predicted the glory of the future city she saw spread out at her feet. There are many other legends connected with the history of Vyšehrad, such as that of Šemík, the horse that threw itself off the rock to save its master Horymír. Today, the place is a bit shunned by foreign visitors, because it is a bit out of the way, but this is also what makes it so charming: if you like to be quiet on a walk, take the opportunity (see our "walk" box in this same chapter). The ramparts, impressive by their thickness, seem to protect us here from the bustle of the city. Pragians come to stroll around on weekends to enjoy this peaceful haven just a few subway stops from the city center. On your own walk, don't hesitate to go up to the cliff for the beautiful view of Prague Castle on the other side of the river and watch the Vltava river flow along the docks saturated with cars during rush hour. The noise that often rises up to here seems unreal in this quiet, green place. With this abandon and mystery, Vyšehrad, with its almost rural character, is a romantic place for a walk, a stroll through Czech history and mythology.

The Devil's Column. At the edge of the path, on the way up to Vyšehrad Castle, you can see a column broken into three pieces. According to a legend, a priest of Vyšehrad had sold his soul to the devil in exchange for his services on earth. Shortly before his death, the priest regretted this agreement and sought a way to recant. A clause stipulated that the contract would be cancelled if the devil failed to fulfill one of the priest's wishes. He asked St. Peter for advice, and he suggested that the devil should bring a column from the church of Our Lady in Rome and place it in Vyšehrad during the service. The devil flew to Rome, brought the column back to Prague, but St. Peter, to help the priest, made the wind rise, and the column escaped the devil's hands three times. When the devil arrived after the mass and was furious at his loss, he threw the column at the cathedral. The column broke into three pieces, which can still be seen on the roadside in Vyšehrad.

The gates. The site is surrounded by high walls, the remains of its transformation into a fortress in the 17th century, and it is necessarily through a gate(brána) that you will approach it. If you arrive from the metro station, you will pass under the Tabór gate (Táborská brána). It is surrounded by a moat (today it is used as a tennis court). It dates from the 17th century. Continuing towards the St. Martin's Rotunda, you pass by the ruins of the Špička Gate and then under the Leopold Gate (Leopoldova brána), a Baroque building from 1670, partly designed by Carlo Lurago. If you come from the Vltava River quays via Vratislavova Street, you will pass under the Brick Gate (Cihelná brána). It was completed in 1842 by Chotek. The vaulted casemates at the entrance are worth a visit for their architecture, but also for the small exhibition about the history of the Vyšehrad fortifications.

St. Martin's Rotunda. Near the entrance, it is a Romanesque church built in the 11th century. It is the oldest monument in Vyšehrad. Sanctuary of the first Bohemian king Vratislav II, it has had various uses over the years: shelter for the poor and even a police station. A cannonball was embedded in the walls of the rotunda in 1757, when Prague was conquered by the Prussian armies.

Old and new deanery. Near the Old Deanery are the remains of the St. Lawrence Basilica, an 11th century church that stood next to the old royal complex. It was later remodeled in the Gothic style and destroyed during the Hussite wars of 1420, but its existence was not rediscovered until the 1920s. Excavations have also uncovered the remains of a building dating from the year 1000, under the basilica.

Church of Saints Peter and Paul (Kostel svatého Petra a Pavla). It was originally a church of the eleventh century, of which only a few foundations and the sarcophagus St. Longin remain, probably originally used to house members of the Přemyslid royal family. The present appearance of the church owes much to the neo-Gothic reconstruction carried out by Mocker in 1885.

National Pantheon (Slavin). The most famous cemetery in the Czech Republic dedicated by "the grateful fatherland" to "great men" (and women). See below for a detailed description.

Gothic cellar. Small exhibition on the history of Vyšehrad in the bowels of the old medieval castle.

After the visit. You will have to go back down to the Vltava river banks following the same path as on the way out. Afterwards, we recommend crossing the river by the railway bridge and heading to Petřín Hill to extend this green day.

It owes its name, "Theatre of the States", to the Bohemian States that subsidized its construction in 1783. It was largely financed by Joseph II and displays a very elegant neoclassical style. Prague's oldest theatre owes its fame to the fact that it hosted the world premiere of Don Giovanni under the baton of its creator W.-A. Mozart (who had already conducted The Marriage of Figaro here). Today, the building is perfectly rehabilitated and it is a real pleasure to attend a show in the neobaroque decorated hall. This theatre is also famous for having been the site of the first Czech-language performances during the period of the "National Revival", when the official language was German. Today, ballets and operas are performed there, mostly from Mozart's repertoire. The theatre is curiously located between two long squares: Ovocný Trh, the former fruit market, and Uhelný Trh, the former coal market. In the space between these two squares lay the old city of St. Gallen, a Romanesque town built at the foot of the Old Town walls around 1225. Also in front of the facade of this theatre, on Ovocný Trh Square, there is a small ice rink accessible to all in winter (only skates can be rented for a fee): one of the most beautiful attractions in Prague in winter for those who love romantic clichés!

That is where the main international lines go. The building is worth a glance: built by Josef Fanta between 1907 and 1909, it is typically Art Nouveau, and a pilgrimage is required in the old lost room. It is the second largest Secession Building in Prague after the Municipal House. The large central dome is still impressive, much more than the grand aisles of the modern train station, built under the historic railway station.

The crowning achievement of Prague's red hours: the Žižkov television and radio tower. At 216 meters high, its futuristic spire looks like something out of a Bilal comic strip. Its construction, between 1985 and 1992, provoked much controversy. Take the elevator for a 93-metre high, 360° panoramic view. You can even enjoy a drink or a bite to eat in the beautiful café-restaurant Oblaca, or at Miminoo, at the foot of the tower with its large terrace in the Mahler Gardens.

Next to the Municipal House and at the beginning of Celetná Street, this tall black Gothic tower marks one of the former entrances to the city walls, which had a total of thirteen gates. It is always the impression she gives, so great is the excitement at her feet throughout the day. Dominating Náměstí Republiky, it was on the road to Kutna Hora. If a first tower existed on this site in the 13th century, the construction of the powder magazine tower began in 1475, and it was not until the 17th century, before being massively bombed by the Prussians in 1757, that it was used for powder storage, hence its name. After a century of neglect, having been largely destroyed in the conflict, it finally underwent a renovation campaign in 1886, led by Josef Mocker, in a neo-Gothic style. A high roof and statues representing Czech kings and saints were added, creating harmony with the city's other bell towers, particularly those of Notre-Dame-devant-le-Týn, as the tower had definitively lost its military role. Today, you can climb to the top and contemplate the panoramic view of the city while lingering in front of a small historical exhibition highlighting the different towers of Prague through history, not only historical towers, like this one, but also more recent ones like Petrin's or Žižkov's huge television tower.

The building (Schwarzenberský palác) that faces Prague Castle is certainly the most beautiful Renaissance palace in Prague. It was built between 1545 and 1563 by Agostino Galli (known as Vlach). The entire facade is covered with Venetian-style sgraffito and diamond-tipped boss designs, the typical decorative element of this period, which is very nice to see from the side of Hradčanské Square and from Malá Strana's Nerudova Street where the perspective changes completely. The galleries of the Schwarzenberg Palace provide a prestigious setting for part of the wonderful art collection of the National Gallery. The other part is now on display in the Sternberg Palace. The exhibition, which will open in 2022, will showcase the works of both Czech and European Old Masters. The exhibition will feature magnificent paintings from various schools and periods from the pre-Renaissance to the Baroque. The national painter Karel Škréta (1610-1674), who is considered to have introduced Baroque painting to Prague, has his own room dedicated to him, with fifteen masterpieces to discover.

Like other buildings in the National Gallery, the visit is as much about the works on display as it is about the building itself. Be sure to look up regularly to admire the splendidly carved ceilings, and don't miss the stucco decorations, mirrors, floors and fireplaces that embellish each room.

Strahov's theological library, designed by the architect G.-D. Orsi (1671-1679), contains more than 16,000 volumes under vaults decorated with frescoes and stuccoes that praise studies and books. The philosophical room, by I.-J. Palliardi, is much more classical (a century apart) and was designed with pre-existing furniture in mind. The famous ceiling fresco, which illustrates the history of mankind, is the last work of F. Maulbertsch.

Troja Castle is a Baroque-style summer residence on the banks of the Vltava River in Prague's northwest suburbs. Built for the Counts Sternberg, the palace is surrounded by formal gardens featuring an orangery, a labyrinth, numerous fountains and statues. Architect Jean-Baptiste Mathey drew his inspiration from opulent Roman villas. The interior features magnificent salons, sculpted staircases and period paintings.

The Clementinum is the largest architectural complex in Prague after the castle. Few of its sites are open to the public, but it can be crossed from one end to the other and reach the Charles Bridge. Founded in 1556 by the Jesuits who established their college there, it was built on the site of thirty houses, three churches, ten courtyards and several gardens.

The National Library of the Czech Republic (Národní knihovna České republiky). In 1800, Charles University recovered the whole and installed its library there. Today, the three million volumes constitute the National Library's collection. Some of them, such as the Codex Vysehrad (1085), are of inestimable value.

The astronomical tower (open from Monday to Friday, from noon to 7pm, and on weekends from 10am to 7pm). The ascent allows you to enjoy the panorama, discover 18th century astronomical instruments and explore part of the Baroque National Library.

The Church of St. Savior (Sv. Salvátora). Among the three churches in the complex, Saint-Sauveur is the one closest to the Charles Bridge. Its façade, decorated by Jan Jiří Bendl, one of the most prestigious Czech Baroque sculptors, welcomes visitors from Malá Strana.

The Mirror Chapel (Zrcadlova Kaple). Finally, during concerts, you can visit the Chapelle aux Miroirs, built in 1724 and decorated with many mirrors.

This baroque palace was built on the site of two Gothic houses. Its current appearance dates back to 1700, when the Kaiserstein family took possession of it. You can see his coat of arms above the first floor window. The palace prides itself on having housed two famous sopranos within its walls: Marie Petzold, Libuše's performer in Smetana's opera, and Ema Destinnová, Caruso's partner, whose bust adorns the façade.

The theatre on one side and the Slavia café on the other end Narodni Street at the Vltava River and the Legion Bridge. The first, a huge neo-Renaissance vessel, is a manifesto of Czech nationalism at the end of the 20th century (built from 1863 to 1881). Josef Zítek, a professor at the technical college and architect, is in charge of the project. Built thanks to a popular subscription, it had a dramatic start as it was partially destroyed by fire only nine days after the inauguration. Fortunately, we were able to rebuild it on the same subscription! Like that of the Municipal House, the interior decoration of the national theatre was designed by all the great names of the time: Tulka, Aleš and Hynažs, decorator of the stage curtain. Thanks to its modernity and quality equipment, the theatre remained intact for nearly a hundred years, until 1977. It then closed its doors until 1983 for renovation work on the building and its immediate surroundings, including the Legion Bridge (most Légií), which extends Národní, built to facilitate access to the National Theatre. The centenary was celebrated on 18 November 1983 with a performance of Libuše de Smetana. Opened in 1884, the large Slavia café just opposite has become since the opening of the theatre the great meeting place for Prague's intellectuals, and has preserved a sublime Art Deco interior architecture and large bay windows overlooking the Vltava and the castle.

One of Prague's finest rococo buildings, located on Old Town Square. The palace was designed by Kilián Ignác Dientzenhofer and built by Anselmo Lurago. Reconstruction work is underway until 2024, and the National Gallery's collections have been moved to other buildings. Enter, however, on the first floor, where you'll find the Franz Kafka bookshop, on the almost identical site where his father ran his store.

The Count Šternberg Palace (Šternberský palác), accessible via an alley slightly set back from the castle square, is a magnificent Baroque building (1698-1720), with facades overlooking the courtyard, decorated with stucco. The building, built by an Italian architect, houses one of the six exhibitions in the rich collection of the National Gallery of Prague dedicated to art from the 16th to the 18th century. It gathers a very large collection of paintings by the great European masters in which the Italian and Flemish schools are particularly well represented.

Ground floor. It is entirely devoted to Austrian and German art, the collection exhibits works by Lucas Cranach, Hans Holbein, Hans Grien, Hans Grien, and Albrecht Dürer, whose famous Virgin of the Feast of the Rosary acquired in 1606 by Emperor Rudolf II. Linger in this part of the collection, which is very representative of schools that are not well known or present in French museums.

^1st floor. Passing through rooms dedicated to ancient art, it is mainly lovers of Italian painting who will love this part of the exhibition. Art on the other side of the Alps is represented by Bartolomeo Veneto, Agnolo Bronzino and his famous portrait of Eleanor of Toledo, as well as Lorenzo Monaco. The exhibition focuses mainly on the early Italian period from the 14th to the 16th centuries.

^2nd floor. You can find here the greats of French, Dutch, Italian and Spanish art between the 17th and 18th centuries: Rubens, Van Dyck, Rembrandt and Hals on one side, Jusepe de Ribera and Goya on the other. One of the most remarkable pieces: the very expressive Face of Christ by El Greco. The German and Italian Renaissance are particularly well represented there with paintings acquired, very often, by the rulers themselves during the Austro-Hungarian Empire, and admirably preserved. Don't miss to admire the room where some Rubens are exhibited, including the Martyrdom of Saint-Thomas and Saint-Augustin.

While browsing through this immense page of culture, also take the time to detail the beautiful decorations, Hungarian stitch floors and mouldings on the walls and ceilings of the various rooms of the palace, which alone would already be worth a visit. This building is one of the most representative of Bohemian Baroque, and one of the most impressive achievements.