The monastery of Aghios Emilianos can be reached by sea-taxi or by paths that climb inland and are not easy to find. It's a 4-hour walk each way, and the same for the return journey, which few people have the courage to make in summer. As a result, you're likely to find yourself alone in this oasis of serenity. The monastery is built on a tiny isthmus that juts out into a protected cove, where bathing is easy. It's closed to visitors most of the time, but if you come aboard the Poseidon, the captain has the keys and can show you around. Departures are from Gialos, every day at 10:30 a.m. in season.

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