8 km north of Pigadia, in the center of the island and in the foothills of Mount Kalmi Limni, Aperi is the largest of a series of hillside villages, including Volada and Othos. It was once the island's capital. Now a religious center, it is also the birthplace of several wealthy Karpathiote emigrants, who have built houses here in a somewhat American style. The most beautiful district is Vallandou. The three villages are most interesting for their panoramic views of the east coast: balconies overlooking the Aegean, they're worth a visit for the view. They also mark the boundary between the more domesticated, flat south of the island and the wild, mountainous north. From Aperi, you have access to the most beautiful pebble beaches on the east coast. Heading north, don't miss the magnificent beaches of Kyra Panagia and Apella. The latter has been voted Greece's most beautiful beach on several occasions. The waters are of unprecedented purity, in a steep, wooded setting. The roads leading to it, especially the one to Apella, are impressive: narrow and winding, they plunge steeply down the mountains into an emerald sea - so drive carefully! Closer to the village, the pebble beach of Ahata is just as beautiful and houses a taverna in season. In terms of accommodation, there's not much to report in the sleepy villages of Aperi, Volada and Othos, and you're more likely to find a place to stay on Kyra Panagia beach, the least unspoilt in the region.

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