The best bars and cafés Dubrovnik

This small wine bar in an alley in the old town is a gateway to the world of Croatian wines. The owner is a worthy representative of a family of winemakers based in Konavle, producing malvazija (an indigenous grape variety). Nikolić, always knowledgeable about the wines he serves, lets you taste, explains. He offers wine by the glass, of course, pitchers of regional wines, but also many Croatian wines, accompanied by tapas (olives and cheeses). Also serves beers, coffee and soft drinks.

What looks like a refreshment bar is actually an opening in the ramparts, which cling to the rocks at this point in the old town. From the Stradun, head south down Od Marguerita alley, follow the "cold drink" sign and, after passing the Jesuit church, turn left. At the entrance to Buža, take the steps to enter the fortification wall through the hole(buža in Ragusan dialect). This is the larger of the two bars of the same name, and also the more expensive. Magical at sunset.

This café-restaurant, set up at the arrival point of the cable car on Mount Srđ, boasts the finest aerial view of the old town and surrounding countryside. Even the locals keep coming back, as the view is so sublime, and in the evening the lights of the city light up the eyes. Pleasant atmosphere, attentive service. The restaurant offers quality seafood cuisine at rather high prices. Remember to book in advance to get a good table and make the most of the panorama.

Right in the middle of Stradun, next to Saint Blaise church, the Cele café, founded in 1932 by Celestin Šikić alias Cele, a VIP dandy of the time, is not for everyone... But what wouldn't you give to feel the soul of a Ragusan patrician? The place is open from morning to night, offering breakfast formulas, pizzas, burgers and dishes at all hours, beers, wines and cocktails. From the Cele's tables, you'll be able to watch Dubrovnik's social life unfold, until the DJ sets kick in and the café becomes an open-air club.

Looking to escape the crowds? Take the steps down from Pile to this little beach bar. You can sip a coffee or a beer, eat tapas and even take a dip while keeping your table. The place is ideal for a morning coffee-croissant overlooking the sea, or for a charcuterie and cheese board at aperitif time. Are you really hungry? No problem, between cocktails and other cold drinks, this beach bar also offers a good snack bar. The kitchen opens at midday.

An intimate café-bar in a quiet cul-de-sac in the south of the old town. Here, you can learn the art of tasting rakija, the Balkan brandy. We've got a thing for sage and wild strawberry! As for the rest, a few cocktails, beers and good wine. During the day, the clientele prefers teas and coffees, but after sunset there's plenty of live music and drinking to be had. It's a shame the place is closed out of season, and prices are now quite high.

The large armchairs on its terrace invite visitors to relax there. The cocktail card is original and complete. The service is friendly and the musical atmosphere assured. A defect: It is a very good tourist.

This elegant café catches the eye of passers-by. The scenic terrace is unrivalled in the heart of Stradun: to the left is the Pile gate and, in a straight line, the Clock Tower. The interior is strung with ancient beams. Café Festival can be used as a brunch/breakfast venue, restaurant or tea room with pastries. In the evening, from 7pm, the pianist sets the mood in concert. Of course, all this comes at a price. Breakfasts are not far from being overpriced, and it's often very crowded.

This Zagreb-based chain has taken over a ^16th-century mansion just off the Stradun and St. Blaise church. This Bodega has become a rallying point for ragamuffin revellers and, more recently, sushi lovers (particularly good here). With its wine bar, cocktails and other alcoholic beverages, the place quickly becomes festive and noisy in the evening (without moderation!). With the music on, the atmosphere gets livelier and we stay here until late into the night. Very high prices, but couldn't be better placed in the old town.

Situated in the bay of Uvala Lapad, 2.5 km from the old town, this seaside resort, with its various facilities, attracts many visitors. The resort boasts no fewer than 2 restaurants (Blanco and Trattoria), a lounge club and a beach bar with deckchairs and cabanas where you can relax your toes sipping a cocktail in front of a magnificent sunset! Ideal for children, the swimming area is safe and there are play areas. In the evening, the area comes alive with concerts and entertainment, especially in summer!

Halfway between the center of Lapad and the center of Gruž, this small neighborhood bar becomes an evening reference point for locals, who come here for a few drinks, dancing, and even singing on karaoke nights. Don't expect much in the way of programming: the DJs who liven up the evenings in season are well known locally, but if you want to get in touch with Gruž's youth, l'Amor remains a friendly address. Beware, as with most bars in Croatia, there's a lot of smoking inside.

Ragusans love this little pub just a stone's throw from Pile and the sea, and it's easy to see why. From the tables on the water's edge, away from the hustle and bustle at the entrance to the old town, you can enjoy the sun and the view. The Kop is also open out of season, when it becomes one of the best places to read and drink coffee. Don't expect a very elaborate offer: no long list of cocktails, but a simple but good breakfast is served, and drinks are priced right!

This Irish pub, which opened in 2004, is always packed when there's a soccer or rugby match on TV. But even if you're not a sports fan, the Gaffe is still a nice (and air-conditioned) place to spend a few hours. The kitchen is open all day and offers a bit of everything: breakfast with eggs and sausages, cheese plates, salads, meat, tacos, desserts... Prices are not exaggerated given the pub's location. Good selection of beers and whiskies. Please note: smoking is not prohibited inside.

A new entry in Durbovnik's panorama of chic wine bars! As the name suggests, Fratellos specializes in prosecco, the famous Italian sparkling wine. But that's not all: this new venue has set up shop next door to Kino Slavica, the town's historic summer cinema, which boasts a wonderful garden overlooking the sea. On the menu, plenty of cicchetti (Venetian tapas), as well as cheese and charcuterie platters, plus a breakfast menu.

Between the Ploče gate and the Magistrala, the road that runs along the Dalmatian coast, the Bikers Caffe is a meeting place for locals and, of course, bikers passing through. With a beautiful view of the old port and the city, reasonable prices and even sandwich, breakfast and packed lunch formulas, this café remains an interesting place to stop before setting off to explore Dubrovnik's surroundings. In the evening, rock music invades the premises, with occasional live concerts. Highly recommended.

Cogito is an artisan roastery that opened the doors of its first café in 2014 in central Zagreb. Since then, several Cogito's have opened around the world, including one in Dubrovnik's Old Town. Colorful cups, retro furniture and, above all, the scent of freshly-ground coffee are the signature of this place with a friendly atmosphere. Prices may be high (as elsewhere in the old town), but the quality is top-notch. Sometimes, slices of cake or croissants are also served. Wifi available.