BIG BAZAAR (KAPALI ÇARŞI)

Construction began in the ^15th century, during the reign of Mehmed II the Conqueror, on the initiative of the vizier Mehmed Paşa. Damaged by various fires and partially destroyed by several earthquakes, the Grand Bazaar was constantly redeveloped, renovated and rebuilt. The bazaar initially grew up around the Bedesten (from the Persian word Bezesten, meaning "cloth market"). These were the markets for woollen and silk fabrics, before becoming the goldsmiths' markets. The Old Bedesten (Cevahir Bedesten, in the center, the heart of the market), now an antiques market, where jewels, antique weapons, crockery, etc. are piled up. Access to the market is through more than 18 gates, one of the largest being located in the courtyard of the Nuruosmaniye mosque. The motto "God loves a merchant" is inscribed on the pediment of this gate, in a cartouche decorated with an Ottoman coat of arms. The Goldsmiths' Gate features a bas-relief of a double-headed imperial eagle, the emblem of the Palaeologus dynasty, while the market is enclosed on all sides and almost entirely covered. Spread over a large area, the Grand Bazaar has more than 60 lanes in its 30-hectare footprint, housing over 3,500 stores. An 1880 census counted 4,400 stalls, 2,195 workshops, 497 stalls, 20 han, 12 warehouses, 18 fountains... During the Ottoman period, each alley was given a name according to the craftsmen or shopkeepers who mostly worked there (jewelers' street, mirror makers' street, pantoufliers' street). This diversity and specialization endures to this day, and stores representing each trade can still be found in the Grand Bazaar. Today, 15,000 people work in 3,500 stores, including 1,500 jewelers, compared with 1,742 stores in 1976, including 472 jewelers. The area around the Grand Bazaar is home to a large number of brokers, bureaux de change and loan offices, making it an influential and highly organized financial center. It is estimated that the merchandise on display in the windows of the 1,500 jewelers and in their vaults is worth at least 10 tons of gold. Turks and tourists rub shoulders buying fabrics, leather goods, crockery... The drawback is that prices are often not displayed, so if you buy something, don't hesitate to bargain! Many of the vendors speak a little French. Even Hollywood has been drawn to the Grand Bazaar, with James Bond's Skyfall motorcycle chase across the rooftops.

Get your bearings. It's often said that Istanbul was created to get lost in. This is especially true in the Grand Bazaar. Here are two tips to help you find your way around. First, get to know the main thoroughfare: it's called Kalpakçılar Caddesi. Straight, it links two important gates, the Nuruosmaniye (mosque) and the Beyazıt (east-west axis). Then there's the slope: if you go downhill, you'll head for the lanes leading to the Golden Horn. If not, you head for Beyazıt and its avenue crossed by tramway tracks. Another artery to get to know is the Yağlıkçılar Caddesi: it lies between the Çarşıkapı gate (called Sipahi, then Feraceciler Sokak at first) and Örücüler (north-south axis), which houses a bank, a municipal police office, a post office (set back a little), the ÇakırAğa mosque and W.-c. facilitiesC. It's easy to spot the mosque and its little minaret when the muezzin calls for prayer! Coming from the Nuruosmaniye gate, the first parts are fairly airy, while as you progress towards the Beyazıt, dozens of little alleys take over. If you want to continue towards Eminönü (the spice market) or simply take a stroll towards the Golden Horn, it's more practical to exit via the MahmutPaşa gate (close to Nuruosmaniye, towards the slope). In fact, you'll come across the descent of the same name: straight on, you'll end up in Eminönü. The han at the Grand Bazaar are havens of peace.

Sandal Bedesten. Just at the start of the Nuruosmaniye gate, on the right. Formerly a slave market, this is an excellent spot for a break and a cup of tea (prices are generally higher than outside, especially at Şark Kahvesi, towards the Beyazıt Gate).

Han Cebeci. Located inside the Grand Bazaar, on the Yağlıkçılar Caddesi. It has no inscription on its facade and its architect is unknown. The walls, built of stone and brick, are remarkably well crafted. The arcades of the peristyle and the brick covering of the domes are of particular architectural interest. The characteristics of this han certainly date back to the ^18th century.

Han Zincirli. Opposite Cebeci (Perdahçılar Sokak), go straight ahead and you're there. Very pleasant for its hushed atmosphere. It's here, on two floors, that goldsmiths give free rein to their imagination.

Han Kalcılar. Just before the MahmutPaşa gate. The architectural style and construction techniques employed are ^18th-century. This is a two-storey, single courtyard han dedicated to commerce, with part of the building featuring a third storey.