Travel Guide Lake Natron

Going to Lake Natron is like reaching the end of the world. You'll arrive at Engaresero, the village that serves as the base for your visit to the lake, after crossing vast stretches of wilderness on either side of the chaotic laterite track that starts from Mto Wa Mbu. The Ol Doinyo Lengaï mountain slowly approaches, while the sumptuous landscapes of the mountains bordering the rift loom large on the horizon. Then Lake Natron at the far end.Natron means soda. The PH of this lake is over 10, and it is fed in particular by water flowing down from the great escarpment (the Great Rift) and by run-off from the Ol Doinyo Lengaï, laden with sodium, sulphur and calcium. It was formed 1.5 million years ago as a result of tectonic activity in the region, which led to the formation of the Ngorongoro and Ol Doinyo Lengaï volcanoes, which are still very active. The region is very hot and arid, with daytime temperatures of up to 45°C and only 400 mm of rainfall per year, as it is only just over 700 m above sea level, which is not much compared with the 3,600 m of some of the neighbouring volcanoes to the south, and the 1,300 m to 1,400 m of the Serengeti. As the lake is also very shallow, evaporation is intense, further increasing its saline concentration. The shores of Lake Natron are rich in birds of all kinds (around 250 species), including millions of flamingos who come here to feed and drink, but also to nest, as the lake's mud prevents predators from disturbing them and their eggs. The flamingos, which owe their pink color to the pigment in the algae they feed on, are happy to move from one part of the lake to another, or even from one lake to another. You'll see plenty of giraffe and zebra around the lodges and the lake, who love this grassy plain. To the west of the lake, on the Peninj River, significant evidence of human occupation dating back to the Stone Age has been discovered.If you dream of seeing Lake Natron in postcard-red, almost burgundy, with yellow or orange highlights, you'll have to come in September, the only time it dries out to give it those Martian hues. If you're flying, a low-altitude overflight can be fascinating, especially in the north, where you can see red mineral concretions in the lake, inaccessible from the ground. For the rest of the year, the lake is more blue-grey-brown, the color of the lake's water, but lined with pink flamingos.