Ulaanbaatar does not have a very good reputation. Often described as one of the "ugliest cities in the world", the Mongolian capital faces many urban challenges. If the criticism is severe, many will find it proven. Grey, concrete, terribly rough in winter, disorganized, dirty once the main arteries have left, extremely polluted and noisy at the time of traffic jams, the Mongolian capital nevertheless remains the essential arrival point by air for all travellers from all over the world. By rail too. Transmongolian fans are always invited to come and visit. It is therefore better to try to tame the coldest capital in the world in winter! Its very Soviet architecture strikes at first sight. It recalls a bygone era. Since the Russians left in the early 1990s, some buildings in the heart of the city have never received any attention. Decay is the key word in many places. All you have to do is walk around the Palace of Culture along the east side of the central square, the one dedicated to the national hero Sükhbaatar, to see it. Slow corridors in some wings, defective lighting, sanitary facilities in poor condition... a pity for a structure that has always wanted to be one of the main showcases of the city. This first observation contrasts sharply with the eruption of many new real estate projects. Because today, with strong economic and demographic growth, the city is covered with skyscrapers and bars of residential buildings, without any real overall plan. While many Mongolians would like to turn the Mongolian capital into the Dubai of Central Asia, the wild urban planning that prevails there plunges Ulan Bator into a joyful mess. And with the rural exodus of nomadic populations, who find themselves with no choice but to come and find work in the city, "yurt districts" have grown on the hills on the outskirts of the capital. Nearly 700,000 people are estimated to live in these slums made of tents, with all the hygiene and pollution problems that this entails: coal heating in winter, no sewers, no sewage disposal.... The very name of the city, which means "red hero", in homage to the early communists and of course to Sükhbaatar, is itself emblematic of the contrasts of this changing capital. Many people are calling for a return to its original name, Urga, an important trade hub between China and Russia in the 19th century.On closer inspection, however, the Mongolian capital offers some cultural treasures to all the curious, as well as some good surprises. It guarantees a smooth start with Mongolia. Good museums allow you to learn a lot about the country, and perhaps to orient your itinerary in one direction rather than another. Traditional shows, memorable evenings in the many bars in the city centre or even the few good places to go shopping are all arguments to be put forward. And even if the city gathers half of the country's population (and more in winter), its dimensions remain human, and one can therefore walk around it quite easily (especially since local buses work quite well).Many like to stay on "UB" for a few days to organize their trip to the countryside. They are quite right. This is where it all happens and, as proof, nearly half of the Mongolian population is concentrated in the capital. There will always be time to find fellow travellers to reduce transport costs, once the outside of the capital is won, from guesthouses or travel agencies. For those who do not adapt well to Mongolian cuisine, Ulaanbaatar is a small paradise for the forgotten taste buds. Almost all the cuisines in the world are served here. For good Western restaurants, however, it will be necessary to leave many more tickets than in guanz, the popular restaurants typical of Mongolia. The adventure can begin.

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Chanteur traditionnel au théâtre de Tumen Ekh. Jérôme BOUCHAUD
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