After Nazca, we cross 200 km of desert by the Panamericana, before arriving to Moquegua, at 1 400 m of altitude, in an oasis of greenery. Here, the visitor is awaited in the heat of the coastal climate, tempered by the welcoming shade of the alleys. Populated for thousands of years, it was an important center of the Tiahuanaco Empire, before passing into the hands of the Inca Yahuar Hacca, and then into the clutches of the conquistadores who founded the city in 1541. Moquegua is a cheerful city, with an open-minded population, where misery is, in appearance, less awful than elsewhere. It is a soothing stop on the road to the south.

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