Things to see and do Lima

In a colonial casona marvel of modern Lima, the most important pre-Columbian private collection gathers more than 45,000 pieces. Beautiful Paracas textiles, including a fabric with 398 strands in a square inch and stone sculptures from Chavín de Huantar. Without forgetting the bóveda, the chest containing objects made of metals and precious stones, of which a fabulous complete set of chimú dignitary: pectoral, bracelets, diadem, earrings.

The Larco Museum owes much of its well-deserved reputation to its erotic ceramics. Here, the objects of the Mochica culture are exhibited. These fine craftsmen, whose morals were unbridled, depicted all the stages of the sexual life of their contemporaries, with great crudity, without omitting either the most scabrous details or the venereal risks incurred. The other unique curiosity of this museum is the "depósito", a store where thousands of ceramics are stored on shelves and by category (women - a rare theme in these cultures - vampires, wars, sacrifices, flowers...). Another good point: the panels are written in Spanish, English, French, Italian, German and Japanese. Nice café-restaurant with a terrace under a bougainvillea (pasta, local Creole dishes, dishes for children). This is THE visit to make, as the staging and presentation of the exhibits is quite unique in Peru. Specialist professional guides are available, in French, please book.

Built in 1535 on the site of a pre-Columbian temple, it is the oldest house in Lima. Located on the left side of the presidential palace, in the alley leading to the Río Rímac, this casona is still inhabited by the descendants of the founder, companion in arms of Pizarro. It is certainly one of the most beautiful colonial houses in Latin America, very well preserved and richly furnished. This beautiful jewel also hosts special events and sometimes meals (minimum 20 people, depending on availability, it is often the agencies that can offer it).

This church is the most beautiful of Lima and its square, invaded by pigeons, gives it a false air of Venice. Its carved stone façade is worth the trip. On the right as you enter, a fantastic altarpiece overshadows the central altar with its gold. The chairs in the choir are carved from Nicaraguan cedar; the columns and vault are decorated with plaster reliefs. The library houses some 25,000 volumes. The catacombs, discovered in 1951, house the bones of nearly 70,000 deceased.

With its adjoining chapel, it dominates the Plaza de Armas with its two bell towers. Built in 1625, it appears as it was rebuilt after the 1940 earthquake (this was, and still is, very controversial): a mixture - a little heavy - of Baroque, Romanesque and Gothic elements. Its three main naves are planted with elegant columns and gothic ribs elegantly dress its domes. Along the two side naves, a Stations of the Cross is depicted on huge paintings and the 12 apostles on the 12 columns. There are no less than 13 chapels, each with altars chiselled in gold, some of which allow us to get to know illustrious local "figures" whom we will meet again on our way, such as the Virgen de la Candelaria, Santa Rosa de Lima or San Martin de Porres. The highlights are the choir seats and benches, by the Catalan artist Pedro Noguera, finely carved in wood and of impeccable precision. The sacristy houses a religious museum. The other controversial subject is the alleged presence or absence of the remains of Francisco Pizarro, who is said to rest in the chapel to the right of the nave. This is still the most richly decorated crypt.

For those who do not wish to pay the entrance fee, the cathedral is open for services on Saturdays at 9am and Sundays at 11am; in this case, discretion is advised. Nevertheless, we recommend at least a visit to the impressive cathedral and, if you have time, the associated museum.

Attention, this museum is under renovation, but its reopening was announced soon, inform you before programming a visit. This museum has priceless treasures of the different pre-Inca cultures. Not to be missed, the mochica room and the showcases dedicated to the wari culture, the few erotic ceramics, the Paracas textiles, the chimú jewels and utensils, the mummies with the deformed and trepanned skulls of the coastal peoples (a particularly impressive mummy veils his face with his left hand where the nails shine). The engraved stones - including the Raimondi stele from the Chavín period, 2 m high, and the Tello obelisk found in Chavín de Huantar, with its engravings of fantastic animals - as well as the crossed hands of Kotosh, are all breathtaking subjects.

Also fascinating is the Museo Nacional de Historia, with furniture and paintings from the colonial and republican periods (including a remarkable gallery of some 35 portraits of the viceroys of Peru). This part is located in the Quinta de los Libertadores, a large colonial house with a flowered patio, which was inhabited successively by José de San Martín and Simón Bolívar, the liberators of the country. Guide service in French (S/ 15). Around the Plaza de Pueblo Libre, colorful houses and some traditional addresses. Quite dense, we hope that the renovation will allow a beautiful enhancement of these treasures that will illuminate what we will see later in the trip.

Built in 1534, that is to say before the foundation of the city. There are many baroque altarpieces, of course, gilded with gold leaf, and an altar from which emerges the tabernacle in embossed silver. Its façade is also very elaborate in the Churrigueresque Limenian baroque style and its door made of pinkish-grey granite imported from Panama at the time is quite unique. Without a doubt, it stands out in the most commercial pedestrian street of the historic centre.

This majestic square is closed on two sides by arcades where small vendors and shoeshine boys jostle each other. A natural outlet of the Jirón de La Unión, a pedestrian street that connects it to the plaza Mayor, the plaza San Martín is a popular meeting place for young Limenians, around the equestrian statue of the Libertador. It has been renovated and its imposing white buildings give it a certain presence. There is a hotel in its time prestigious, the Bolivar. It is also here that demonstrators gather during protests, which are careful on those days.

The site evokes a spiritual and administrative center of the Lima culture (200 to 700 AD). The pyramids made of "adobitos" (the walls, similar to libraries, are built of "small books of adobe" spaced from each other, which gives them antiseismic properties) of 30 m height would be erected on bones of sacrificed women as well as on broken ceramic basins. The plants, trees and flowers are also the object of a reconstitution of the time, just like el perro peruano, typical Peruvian dog without hair... We also see llamas, alpacas and cuy in an enclosure. An interesting visit, especially that the site is well valued with a guide included in the price of the ticket. It's a pity that there is so often fog, because we would have a beautiful view on Lima from the top of the pyramid!

The night visits are a new way to enjoy the mystic touch of the site. You can't climb the highest of the pyramids but the site is beautifully lit.

Its restaurant (Tel +51 1 445 4042 - www.resthuacapucllana.com) is worth a visit. First of all, its location is unique and offers without doubt one of the most romantic panoramas of Peru. Secondly, the Peruvian cuisine, with a touch of "fusion nouvelle cuisine", is excellent! Count S/ 100 to the chart.

Other restaurants with terraces at the exit of the Huaca like the Bodega de la Trattoria or Gianfranco. You can also admire the site from outside on the terrace in this residential and affluent area.

One of the few green lungs of the capital! This zoo is divided into four regions: the coast, the forest, the jungle and the international area. You will see sea lions (show on Sunday at 3pm) that you can observe from a tunnel, llamas, condors, bears, jaguars, tigers and many varieties of birds! The feline area has been nicely improved. The monkey island is nice, the butterfly greenhouse is well thought out. Children love it... Be careful at the end of the week and on public holidays, it's really crowded.

From the Marina Club (on the port, next to the Fortaleza Real Felipe) a boat takes you to the Palomino Islands where the most important colony of sea lions in Peru is concentrated. The Palomino Islands are not as famous as the Ballestas Islands, further south, yet they have the same natural riches. It is possible to photograph the sea lions and even to swim with them (wetsuits are provided). On board between 25 and 35 people, the tour lasts about 3 hours. Sometimes, the swell requires to close the port. Make a reservation!

A beautiful modern space on the border between Miraflores and Barranco, this Museo de Arte Contemporeano is surrounded by a nice garden where, on nice days, it's nice to hang out. The design shop at the entrance is interesting although expensive. The permanent exhibition is well thought out, it is a large space where local contemporaries such as Fernando de Szyszlo, Kukuli Velarde, or Elliot Tupac are presented. The most interesting thing is the temporary exhibitions on the agenda: new visual artists, talented national photographers and international stars.

It is also called the "House of Pizarro". This is the seat of the Peruvian government, the residence of the President of the Republic of Peru and the seat of the executive power. It is located in the Plaza Mayor (or Plaza de Armas). It was here that Pizarro founded Lima on January 18, 1535, and the fig tree that once stood in his garden still remains. The viceroys followed one another and transformed a rather humble residence into a small palace inspired by the Palace of Versailles. José de San Martin, the liberator, stayed there for a short time but preferred Pueblo Libre. The palace had its moment of glory under the government of Marshal Ramon Castilla before being occupied during the war with Chile. The palace as we see it today dates back to 1937 and was embellished in 2005 like many historical monuments in the center. Inside, the Dorado Room is the most sumptuous, gilded with gold leaf and furnished in the French style. This is where the Order of the Great Sun (Orden de Gran Sol) decorations are awarded, for example. You can't get in, but stand in front of the gates at 12 noon. This is the time of the changing of the guard - where the dragoon guards, escorting the President of the Republic, salute the flag. Here again, their dress is inspired by the French Republican Guard. On Sundays, the horse guards also participate in the ceremony. On certain more symbolic dates, this parade is an obviously superbly regulated military show.