Situated at the level of Lake Langano, on the other side of the road, the Abijata and Shalla lakes were a veritable bird paradise, which led to their designation as a national park, covering more than half of their 887 km2 area. This aquatic world was home to a myriad of birds, including thousands of pelicans, and was a popular winter stopover for migrating ducks. Unfortunately, for several years now, the water level in Lake Abijata - the food reserve for these hordes of birds - has been falling steadily as a result of irrigation and industrial pumping. The rise in salinity has led to the virtual disappearance of fish from the lake, and the migration of pelicans to Lake Ziway in particular. On the other hand, this new configuration seems to be making the pink flamingos happy, as they gather by the tens of thousands on the muddy banks of the lake, a sight that alone is worth the trip. And what can we say about the beauty of the natural setting in which the lakes are set?Although separated only by a strip of land dominated by the 2,075 m-high Mount Fike, these twin lakes have very different characteristics, the first indication of which is their different hues.To the north, Abijata, no more than 14 m deep, is surrounded by hills, while to the south, Shalla, at 250 m, is the deepest of the Ethiopian Rift lakes. Its steep slopes, dominated by a 400 m escarpment dotted with euphorbia and acacia trees, are explained by its volcanic origin, as evidenced by the bubbling springs on its shores. In the cool of the early morning, the steam that escapes creates a striking atmosphere. The small islands dotting its surface are still an ideal refuge and nesting place for birds, safe from predators. To the south-west, the small Chitu crater lake with its marshy banks is also home to pink flamingos, who seem to shuttle back and forth between here and Abijata. Of the mammals that inhabit the area, only Grant's gazelles are commonly seen, as the park is largely inhabited by local people and their herds. An ideal route leads from the park entrance to the panoramic viewpoint overlooking the two lakes and, further down, to the hot springs. The temperature is such that locals come here to cook food by simply immersing themselves in the water, while others take advantage of the healing properties of the springs by lounging in small pools set aside for the purpose.It's advisable to keep a safe distance from the lakes. Even if the banks seem passable, they are often soft and represent a high risk of getting stuck. At Abijata, from the old bank to the water itself, a huge expanse of mud has formed, covered by a dried crust, on which you should venture only with caution. The closer you get to the water, the more elastic the ground becomes underfoot, creating a very strange sensation. It's possible to get within 30 m of the flamingos, taking care to avoid the dark spots on the crust that indicate the softest spots.

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