MARKET AND MASKAVAS DISTRICT, "LA PETITE MOSCOU" (THE LITTLE MOSCOW)

Built in the ^19th and early ^20th centuries, this part of Rīga is today considered the least secure district of the city, and is also the least restored. However, it's here that you can still see the rare wooden buildings from the early ^20th century. Just behind the Academy of Sciences are some beautiful courtyards, Art Nouveau houses and the Belarusian Embassy.

Central market. The particular interest of this district lies in the Central Market(centrāltirgus), housed in three former zeppelin hangars built before the First World War. If you're looking for communist relics, old books or second-hand tools and spare parts, head for the Latgale flea market held in Sadovnikova, south of the central market, following Gogola iela.

Continuing south on Sadovnikova iela, you reach the former ghetto, where thousands of Jewish inhabitants were massacred or deported to the Salaspils camp during the Second World War. The Riga Ghetto and Holocaust Museum is a must-see. Open 7 days a week, 10 am to 6 pm. Admission by donation; www.rgm.lv.

Right next door is the Spikeri district, with its rehabilitated warehouses.

A Jewish Museum (Muzejs Ebreji Latvijā) , located at Skolas iela 6, on the^3rd floor. It traces the history of the ghetto (for a better understanding, guides can accompany the visit). Open Sunday to Thursday, 11am to 5pm. Admission by donation; www.jewishmuseum.lv.

Academy of Sciences, Turgeneva iela at no. 19, impossible to miss this huge Stalinist building. The local nickname for this impressive Soviet construction is "Stalin's crushed birthday cake" (crushed, because those in Moscow are three times as big!). It was intended that a portrait of Stalin should be added to the façade when it was built, but the idea was abandoned, much to the relief of Latvians. Many hammers and sickles still adorn this building, which is not very popular with the population. There was talk of demolishing it, but in the end it's still there. This 23-storey building houses an Academy of Sciences, private companies, a bank and, above all, the famous cupboard of dainas made entirely by author K.Barons. On the ^16th floor, you'll find all the folkloric richness and originality of the Latvian people. You can climb to the top for a panoramic view of Rīga and beyond.