It is a big village of about a thousand inhabitants that can be reached by river from Yaviza, through the rivers Chucunaque and Tuira. Founded in the 17th century, as the ruins of its fortress testify, El Real de Santa María is the gateway to the Darién National Park. It is also the last place you will be allowed to visit without a guide. If you must stay overnight in El Real, try the Hospedaje de la Señora Sabina (+507 299 6557) on Calle Balboa, which leads to the plaza. Basic rooms with shared bathroom and air conditioning. The price is 30 US$ per person. For a little cheaper but even more basic, try thehospedaje El Nazareño (+507 228 3673). To eat, the Fonda Doña Lola awaits you near the church. Dolores prepares a good comida corriente (rice, patacones, meat or fish) for a few balboas.

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