Moorland or woodland: what are the real landscapes of Scotland?
In the collective imagination, the word Scotland is associated with works such as Arthur Conan Doyle's The Hound of the Baskervilles or films such as Braveheart
, with moorland as far as the eye can see, with bright green ferns, heather in a thousand shades of mauve and pink, and black earth darkened by peat. And what if the real landscapes of Scotland were not this? Or not just that? What if the true nature of Scotland was something else? The association Trees for life works for the restoration of the Caledonian forest (another name for the Highlands). Its name alone, "Caledonia", bears witness to this landscape which has now disappeared. Indeed, given in Roman times and derived from Latin, this designation means "wooded heights". This name, completely out of sync with today's landscapes, is very confusing. However, according to scientific research, the forest once covered 1.5 million hectares and was composed of birch, Scots pine, aspen and other species. Today, it is estimated that 99% of this forest has disappeared. The deforestation can be explained by several historical and economic episodes: the original forest would have been burnt by the Vikings during the invasions, then later to eliminate the wolves. The wood would have been felled in exaggerated quantities and the intensive grazing, allied to the increase of the herds of deer, would have been unable to regenerate. All this is a thing of the past. The time has come for a new sustainable and responsible use of the forest and for replanting with a wide variety of species, but - and this is a key point! - native to the country. The UK has taken the issue on board: Forest Enterprise Scotland, a state body, helps manage public forests and 22% (according to 2016 sources) of private forests are PEFC or FSC certified (European and global sustainable management labels). Scottish Natural Heritage also plays a key role in current reforestation campaigns. Do you see any recently cleared areas? Don't cry scandal: the method is certainly clear-cutting, but followed by a qualitative and beneficial replanting, for the environment and in a time span that exceeds the scale of a human life. The plan is to reforest one fifth of Scotland! In addition to ecological considerations, there are tourism and recreational interests. The forest is a popular place for sports and walking, hence the national parks and other parks that dot the country.Remarkable, very (very!) remarkable trees
There are many centuries-old trees in Scotland. Some are even thousands of years old and some estates will happily (and rightly) boast some of the oldest trees in the country. If you're walking in Pertshire, near Aberfeldy, make a detour to Fortingall to discover its famous yew tree. Located at the corner of its graveyard, it is said to be 5,000 years old, and 9,000 years old by some. Legend has it that it was already 3,000 years old at the time of Christ's crucifixion and that Pontius Pilate, in his youth in the Roman army, sat under its branches. It is the oldest tree in Europe.
Beware, crossing ducks and otters..
Wildlife is one of the other great interests of Scotland for those who like to observe animals in their natural environment. You may be surprised to find some unusual signs on the road indicating the possible and common crossing of ducks or otters.
The Scottish coastline, steep and jagged, stretches for thousands of kilometres. Every cove, every cliff, every beach is home to a variety of wildlife, which can be easily observed. The Shetland Islands and Handa Island are home to many seabirds, which will delight birdwatchers: puffins, guillemots, kittiwakes, oystercatchers and even penguins. The largest colony of gannets is on Bass Rock Island, off North Berwick, an hour's drive from Edinburgh (or 30 minutes by train). Visit the Scottish Seabird Centre
to learn about the country's bird species and take a boat trip with its naturalist guides. The Northern Isles is probably the most popular site for birdwatchers. The famous observatory at Fair Isle and the North Hoy reserve in Orkney are great places to see ragged-tailed gulls. The Hermaness National Nature Reserve in the Shetlands is home to 50,000 puffins.Do you dream of seeing marine mammals? Whales and dolphins can be seen in the Moray Firth. The Scottish Dolphin Centre regularly organises sea trips. Seals and porpoises can also be seen. The waters of the west coast and the Orkney and Shetland Islands are home to around twenty species of whales including humpback and sperm whales. You can also watch dolphins and seals on trips from Inverness, or watch the salmon run up the rivers north of the Highland capital at places like Falls off Shin.
In the hills and glens live the wildcat and pine marten. Hares and ptarmigan roam the valleys of the Highlands. In the north, the peaty areas are dotted with small pools which provide habitat for a wide variety of poetically named birds: lummos, catmarins, barking sandpipers, golden plovers, sandpipers and hen harriers.
Some amusing curiosities are to be pointed out to naturalists: the border between the colonies of red and grey squirrels, marked in particular at Callander. If on one side, south of a line crossing Scotland diagonally, the two races cohabit, the north is the stronghold of the red squirrels, which are protected because they are endangered. Finally, the beaver has returned to Scotland! Since 2009, they are back in the Argyll region, and more precisely in the Knapdale forest. The Barnluasgan information centre is dedicated to them and offers a fun way to observe them through the "Beaver Detective Trial": an easy walk in the footsteps of these rodent builders.
Finally, just because they are not rare does not mean that they should not be honoured! Deer, fallow deer and roe deer are everywhere in Scotland. You will come across red deer in herds in Glencoe or in the Highlands.Safari cows, calves and especially... sheep!
There's nothing wild about them, though... but you'll have just as much fun watching and photographing them. They are the Blackface sheep (or Scottish Blackface) and the emblematic Highland cows
. Scotland is a land of livestock, and in some places it can easily have more sheep than people. Sheep are at the origin of the great cultural symbols of Scotland. Its wool is used to weave the tartan, and therefore the kilts. Its skin is used to make traditional bagpipes. Its meat is eaten in classic dishes (chops, leg of lamb, etc.), but above all in the national dish, with the famous haggis: the sheep's belly stuffed with heart, liver and lung of sheep and decorated with a clever mixture of spices.The first passage of a " cattle grid
" is surprising. These passages on a grid on the ground seem nothing to a car, but for a cow, a sheep or a horse, it is a completely different story. It is impossible for them to cross this limit! On the other hand, in the hundreds of hectares located inside these crossing points, they are free to come and go as they please, including taking a nap or the first steps of a groggy lamb on the road. You will therefore pass through the heart of these moors skilfully tended by Blackface sheep and Highland cows with caution so as not to frighten or hurt any animal. Some farmers even warn you that lambs do not know the rules of the road.Hikers, you will also sometimes enter these territories. In addition to passing through the cattle grid
(much more perilous than it seems when you're sitting in your car), you'll be subjected to various psycho-technical tests to prove yourself to the sheep. Almost every gate has its own operation and opening: sometimes a few steps, sometimes a latch to operate, sometimes a turnstile... It seems that farmers also have fun testing the intelligence and practicality of the humans who walk through the pastures of their animals! A few instructions must be followed when entering these breeding grounds. Dogs must be kept on a leash so that they do not frighten the animals and, above all, do not injure them. A frightened sheep can cause panic in a whole flock. Unfortunately, breeders all too often deplore attacks by our domestic carnivores which, instinctively, can sometimes be taken by a bloodthirsty madness. Humans should also take care to respect the calm of the animals, not to try to approach them even for peaceful caresses (even less on the lambs, at the risk of muscular reprisals from ewes with a strong character!)Each season, each month, a different Scotland
Finally, for lovers of flora and fauna, each season has its assets. Spring is a time to be moved by newborn lambs and to marvel at the beds of daffodils (April) or wood hyacinths (May) or the floral explosions of rhododendrons (June). Autumn gives way to wonderful shades of rust and the observation of salmon swimming up the rivers.
