History and culinary influences

Due to the presence of its large Chinese neighbour for several centuries, Vietnamese cuisine takes up many concepts from the Middle Kingdom. The principle of yin and yang(Âm dương in Vietnamese) is applied to the composition of a meal in order to provide a beneficial balance for the body. Although contrasts in texture and flavour are important, the principle is mainly concerned with the "heating" and "cooling" properties of the ingredients. Some dishes are served in their respective seasons to provide temperature and spice contrasts. Duck meat, which is considered "fresh", is served in the summer season with a ginger fish sauce, which is "hot". Conversely, "hot" chicken and pork are eaten in winter. Seafood is a "cold" food and therefore suitable for "hot" ginger. Hot" spices are generally balanced with acidity, which is considered "cold". These concepts are found in Chinese medicine and have made their way to Vietnam.
Another Chinese influence is the use of chopsticks(dua) to eat, which is not the case in the rest of Southeast Asia where eating is more commonly done with spoons or hands. These are generally made of bamboo or, for the most precious, of ivory or black wood(go mun), set in silver. Nowadays, the plastic version tends to impose itself. In restaurants, western cutlery is often presented in addition to chopsticks. Indeed, the European influence was felt in the country as early as the 19th century. Vietnam became one of the constituent states of French Indochina as early as 1887, which has left its mark on Vietnamese gastronomy. One thus finds the bánh, based on baguette de pain, still commonly consumed in the country. Other dishes such as phở or bánh patê sô, are only the deformations of the French words "pot-au-feu" and "pâté chaud". Wine-growing was less successful because of the tropical climate, which is unsuitable for the cultivation of vines.
Stretching from north to south over some 1,650 km - with an east-west distance of barely 50 km at its narrowest point - the country has a rich and diverse cuisine. In the north of Vietnam, a colder climate limits the cultivation and availability of certain spices during the year, especially in the mountainous regions. As a result, food here is often less spicy than in other regions. Black pepper often replaces chilli pepper for spiciness, which was more generally the case in Asia before the introduction of chilli pepper from the American continent by Europeans in the 16th century. In general, North Vietnamese cuisine presents light and balanced flavours resulting from subtle combinations of many aromatic ingredients. The use of meats such as pork, beef and chicken was relatively limited in the past. Freshwater fish, crustaceans and shellfish, such as shrimp, squid, clams and mussels, are widely used. Not to mention crab, which is very popular. Fish sauce, soy sauce, shrimp sauce and limes are the main herbs. The cradle of Vietnamese civilization, northern Vietnam produces many dishes that are characteristic of Vietnam, such as bún riêu and bánh cuốn, which were transported to central and southern Vietnam by Vietnamese migration.
The abundance of spices produced in the varied terrain of central Vietnam makes the cuisine of this region remarkable for its more spicy food, which distinguishes it from the other two regions of Vietnam where the cuisine is generally not spicy. Former capital of the last dynasty of Vietnam, the culinary tradition of Huế consists of a very colourful cuisine, where the emphasis is on presentation, reflecting the influence of the ancient royal Vietnamese cuisine. The region's cuisine is distinguished by its sophisticated meals consisting of many complex dishes served in small portions. Chillies and shrimp sauce are among the most frequently used ingredients. Some emblematic dishes prepared in the centre of the country are the bún bò huế and the bánh khoái huế.
The humid tropical climate and fertile soil of the Mekong Delta in southern Vietnam create ideal conditions for growing a wide variety of fruits and vegetables and raising livestock. As a result, dishes in southern Vietnam are often varied and rich in taste, characterized by a generous use of garlic, shallots and fresh herbs. Sugar is used more often than in the rest of the country creating many sweet and sour dishes. The preference for sweetness in southern Vietnam can also be seen in the widespread use of coconut milk. The bánh khọt and bún mam are among the most popular seafood dishes in Vietnam.

The classics of Vietnamese cuisine

Vietnamese chefs have become accustomed to decorating dishes with a large number of aromatic herbs and raw vegetables in general. This is one of the great characteristics of the country's cuisine. In addition to the Thai mint, coriander and basil trio, there is the diếp cá, with an iodized taste reminiscent of fish, the ngo gai or long coriander, as well as the rau răm, both called Vietnamese mint and coriander, although it has no relation to these two aromatic herbs. The rau sống refers to a mixture of vegetables - including lettuce, onion, white radish, grated carrot, coriander, mint - that accompanies most dishes. The term dưa muối

refers to different types of vegetables in vinegar: garlic, spring onion, carrot, radish. Because of its Buddhist culture, there are many vegetarians in the country and most meat dishes have variants based on tofu or other vegetable proteins.

If there is one condiment that sums up Vietnam on its own, it is certainly nước mâm. This sauce obtained by fermenting fish in salt gives a clear juice that is very fragrant and rich in taste. The one produced on the island of Phu Quoc has been the subject of a registered designation of origin in Vietnam since 2001. What is commonly found in Europe under the name " sauce for egg rolls" is called nước in Vietnam and consists of nước mâm, water, vinegar and sugar. Mắm tôm is a thick, purplish sauce made from fermented shrimp. It is often added with chilli and lemon juice before serving. Other condiments include soy sauce, tương - a fermented soy paste - or hoisin sauce

, a thick, sweet condiment that looks a little like BBQ sauce.

As in many Southeast Asian countries, hors d'oeuvres and main courses are usually served at the same time on the table. If there is one starter that is a must in Vietnam, it's spring rolls. However be careful, because the term is vague. To taste what is sometimes called pâté impérial in France, you have to order nem rán (sometimes called chả giò) fried and stuffed usually with pork, black mushrooms and rice vermicelli. Conversely, the nem cuốn are raw and are the equivalent of what we call spring rolls, usually filled with shrimp. Very different, the spring rolls nướng are ground pork skewers flavoured with lemongrass, coriander, chilli pepper, originating from the province of Khánh Hòa in the south of the country. The bò bía look like spring rolls, but filled with vegetables, omelette and Chinese sausage. The French-inspired bánh patê sô are meat puff pastries. The bánh khọt are small fried rice cakes topped with shrimp. Close enough, the bánh khoái huế is a rice flour pancake filled with shrimps and soy sprouts. The bánh bao, which comes from China, looks like a generous steamed bun containing minced pork, Chinese sausage and hard-boiled eggs. There are several steamed bites such as the delicate bánh cuốn, thin rice cakes filled with pork and mushrooms or the bánh bột lọc, rice ravioli that become transparent when cooked, revealing their shrimp filling. The term " bánh " includes all kinds of flour-based preparations that can be very different from each other. The one that the French know best is probably the bánh mì

a sandwich based on baguette de pain, French heritage, generously garnished with beef, pork, sausages with all kinds of raw vegetables: cucumber, carrot, coriander, lettuce. Salads are indeed very popular in Vietnam. Examples include gỏi đu đủ (green papaya salad with nuoc nam, shrimps and pork, sprinkled with crushed peanuts), gỏi ngó sen (salad of lotus stems, shrimps and peanuts), nôm chuôi (banana flower salad) or bò tái chanh (beef salad with onions seasoned with lime and chilli). But if there is one staple food that is absolutely essential in the country, it is of course rice. Whether it is white(gạo trắng), sticky (gạonếp) or fragrant(gạo thơm hoa nhài), it is essential in the daily life of the Vietnamese. Scented rice is more expensive and is rather consumed during festive periods such as Tet, the Vietnamese New Year which takes place in winter. Rice is used as a staple food in complete dishes such as cơm chiên (fried rice), cơm hến (clam rice), cơm gà rau (fried rice with shredded chicken & mint) or thơm cơmchiên cá mặn ( rice with dried and salted fish that is also garnished with chicken and omelette). Other rice specialities: the bánh chưng is a square-shaped sticky rice cake filled with pork and chilli and steamed and bánh ít, a pyramid of steamed rice stuffed with meat and moulded into a kind of cone made of woven palm leaves.

Pho, bo bun and other dishes

Noodles and soups often form a complete meal in Vietnam and it is not uncommon for them to be eaten together. The pho (sometimes written phở) is the most illustrious. The cradle of the pho is said to be located in the city of Nam Dinh, south of the Red River Delta. Its deliciously fragrant broth is the key to this recipe. It consists of pork or beef bones, onion, garlic, pepper, star anise, ginger or cinnamon, all of which are roasted to bring out the flavours before being plunged into a large pot of water. The whole thing is served, simmered for a long time, with rice vermicelli, raw vegetables, mint, coriander and a host of other herbs, as well as raw meat often cut into slices so thin that the burning broth will cook them in a few seconds. The pho

is accompanied on the table by a small plate with chopped chilli peppers for those who like it spicier.

Another colloquial term to explore: bo bun. Of course, there are many other recipes that are improperly called bo b un such as the bún bò huế, a noodle soup with spicy pork. In France, what is called bún bòn thịt nướng with its noodle and meat filling, crowned with egg rolls. Simpler, the bún bò nam bộ contains only beef strips, but no spring rolls. You can also try the tasty bún chả with rice vermicelli and pork dumplings seasoned with nuoc nam and chilli pepper. While the bún mắm, a spicy seafood soup, is very popular in the south of the country, in the north one prefers the bún riêu, a fresh water crab soup flavoured with tomato and tamarind, topped with fried tofu and soy sprouts. Finally, canh chuan

is a recipe from the Mekong Delta, made with fish, pineapple, tomatoes and tamarind.

The Vietnamese particularly appreciate pork and chicken as well as beef. Among the best known dishes is thịt kho tàu or pork with caramel, usually cooked with hard-boiled eggs. The bò lúc lắc is a French-inspired dish supposed to mimic our entrecote-frites, although here the beef is sautéed with soy sauce and accompanied by vegetable sticks, in addition to fries of course. The bò kho is a beef stew sometimes containing tripe, with carrots and tomato sauce. The chả lụa is a lean pork and potato starch sausage resembling white pudding. Vietnamese black pudding - tiếtdồi (North) or dồi huyết (South) - is also very popular. The gà nướng sả (grilled chicken with lemongrass) can be found on every street corner. Finally if coconut milk is less used than in Thailand, for example, it is used in the composition of the cà ri gà

- a chicken curry with potatoes and carrots - flavoured with lemongrass. With some 3,500 km of coastline and as many estuaries and rivers, fish and seafood are inseparable from the country's cuisine. The cá kho tộ is a recipe for caramelised fish in a sweet and sour sauce topped with chillies and green onion, while the chả cá lã vọng is prepared with fish marinated in a mixture of turmeric and galanga - a cousin of ginger - before grilling. Chạo tôm is a shrimp paste pressed around a stick before being fried, while bánh tôm are shrimp and grated sweet potato croquettes. Finally, the simple but delicious tôm rang muối ớt is prepared with fried shrimp just seasoned with salt, pepper and a little coriander.

Desserts and drinks

The local markets are filled with an incredible amount of fruits and vegetables that our temperate climates don't even suspect. Of course we find the classic pineapple(dứa), juicy, mango (xoài) ripened to perfection, the deliciously sweet bananas that come in several varieties such as the royal banana (chuôingu), western banana (chuôi tây), seeded banana (chuôihôt), because yes bananas have big round seeds in nature. Orange, tangerine (cam sanh), clementine (quât in the north, tac in the south) and lemon (chanh) can be enjoyed in juice while grapefruit (bưởi) in Vietnam is a huge citrus fruit as big as a melon, light green with a yellowish pulp that is both tart and sweet. The lychee(lệ chi

) native to southern China has been cultivated in Vietnam for over a thousand years.

But there are also lesser known fruits such as the anone corossol (mang câu xiêm) with a white and creamy pulp, very sweet. Vietnam is the world's leading producer of cashew nuts. If everyone knows the nut, few have ever tasted its fruit - also called cashew apple(đào lộn lộn hột or điều)- juicy, fragrant and slightly acidic. Very appreciated in syrup, liqueur and jams. Cut into slices, the carambola(khế) reveals slices in the shape of golden stars. The durian (durion, sâu riêng, tu rên) is considered in many Asian countries as one of the most refined dishes. This brownish fruit the size of a watermelon is bristling with prickles. You can often feel it before you see it. Durian is known for the strong, heady smell of its creamy yellow pulp, which the Vietnamese love. Opinions on the Western side are more mixed. It's worth testing. The fruit of the jackfruit (mít), green and staked, is so huge that it grows directly on the trunk. Its pulpy, golden flesh is very popular in desserts and curries, where it tends to reproduce the slightly stringy texture of the meat. The longana (nhan) is the size of a large grape. Under its hard, brown skin, it hides a translucent and delicious flesh. The mangosteen(măng cụt) has a thick purple skin that hides a white, melting and sweet pulp. Finally, the rambutan (chom chom

), originally from Malaysia, has recently been acclimatized to Vietnam. Very typical, its skin is red with long hairs.

However, even if these tropical fruits are as varied as they are succulent, one should not stop there. Among the most famous desserts is the chè. Between a pudding and a drink, it is usually made from beans and sticky rice. Many varieties of chè are available, each containing different fruits and fillings. Cheese can be served hot or cold and often with coconut milk. The chuối chiên is very common in the markets. This fried banana is often served hot with ice cream, usually vanilla or coconut ice cream. The bánh rán comes in the form of small sesame balls, fried and filled with a cream of mung beans, a relative of soy. The bánh khoai mì is a rich and dense coconut milk cassava cake. Influenced by French cuisine, the bánh flan is served with a caramel or coffee sauce. The bánh , a sweet and airy sponge cake, is flavoured with coconut milk, made from rice flour, while the much denser bánh da lợn

is steamed. It is made of rice flour and coconut milk, alternating layers of different colours scented with taro, durian or pandan, a very fragrant leaf coming from a tree close to a palm tree.

According to a study conducted in 1975 by a Soviet scientist, the oldest tea plants in the world are located on Vietnamese territory in the border region with China. But there is still uncertainty about how tea consumption came to be established in the country, probably between the 7th and 10th centuries. Tea is now grown in 30 Vietnamese provinces, mainly in the north and central highlands. Black tea is reserved for export and it is mainly green tea (che xanh

) that is consumed in the country. When a visitor visits a Vietnamese house, he will always be offered tea. Vietnam produces 15 varieties of tea. Recently, the press reported the discovery of the largest tea tree in the country, in the mountainous province of Lang Son. The tree is said to be more than 2 m in diameter and over 30 m high.

Even if we still associate Asia with tea, we will be surprised to learn that coffee has an important place in the country. Not only because Vietnam is the world'ssecond largest producer after Brazil, but also because the locals consume a lot of it. About 95% of the production is robusta coffee, which is better suited to the country's climate. There are some decoctions that are worth the detour, such as cà phê sữa đá, a very full-bodied black coffee with sweetened condensed milk, or more surprisingly, but deliciously rich, cà phê trứng

, which contains egg yolk, vigorously whipped with milk, which makes for a very rich coffee. The coffee is sometimes even bound with banana or avocado puree for an even creamier texture. As far as cold drinks are concerned, we can mention the soda chanh muối, a soda with sugar and lime confit with salt or the nước mía: sugar cane juice served with ice cubes. Very refreshing, the trà đá chanh is a simple iced tea with lemon. Finally the sinh tố is the generic name given to fruit smoothies. The Vietnamese also like beer a lot. There is Saigon Beer, 333 Imported Prenium Beer, Larue Beer, as well as Hanoi Beer and the Bach Beer Tip. The term bia hơi (literally "fresh beer") is the name given to draught beer, especially in the north of the country (about 3°). There are also some stronger alcohols such as the classic rượu đế, a rice alcohol at about 40°. It is not uncommon for the bottle to contain a snake, a gecko or a scorpion, which are supposed to be an aphrodisiac. Be careful however, in addition to being of dubious taste, these bottles sometimes contain endangered species and the risk of confiscation and a large fine is possible.

Gastronomic oddities

While it is a bit cliché to say that Asia is full of food oddities, it is true that Vietnam has a good number of specialties that appeal to the most adventurous gourmets. No judgment here, in fact many of these dishes are often delicious when you take the plunge and dare to try them, even if some remain more inaccessible to a Western audience. Markets are perfect places to discover the most surprising dishes of Vietnam. We can mention the market of Ben Thanh and Binh Tay in Ho Chi Minh City, as well as the Dong Xuan market in Hanoi or the market of Dong Ba

(Huê) or the central market of Hoi An.

Fertilized eggs - containing a partially developed foetus - are highly sought-after. The rứng vịt lộn (also known as balut in the Philippines) is prepared with a fertilized duck egg that is boiled and eaten in its shell. It is usually served with fresh herbs, salt and black pepper. The trứng cút lộn - made from quail egg - is a popular snack for many Vietnamese students. As with its neighbours, insects are traditionally a delicacy of choice, especially for their high protein content and low cost. Belostoma or ca cuông is however more used as a condiment. This large cicada-sized insect has bladders containing an aromatic, pungent, fragrant substance that is used to season sauces and accompany certain dishes (grilled fish, rice cakes, etc.). But we can also mention the silkworm(nhộng) or the nereid worm (rươi), which can be eaten as an omelette(chả rươi), fermented sauce (mắmrươi), steamed (rươihấp lá sen), or sautéed with chilli and bamboo shoots(củ niễng xào rươi

).

North Vietnamese cuisine is also remarkable for the diversity of meats consumed, which are used in the composition of many local specialties, such as rat meat, snake meat, soft-shelled turtle meat, sparrows, and game such as deer and goat. Taboo in many western countries and in southern Vietnam, the consumption of dog and cat meat is common in the north of the country. Although this may seem shocking to us, let's not forget that the foie gras that the French delight in every Christmas is a highly controversial product in the rest of the world and is banned in nearly twenty countries.

Giblets also remain very popular. Chicken testicles and undeveloped eggs are sautéed with vegetables and served as an everyday dish. Many of the traditional dishes in the Tết festival, such as the giò thủ and the canh măng móng giò, involve the use of pig's heads, tongues, throats and feet. The main ingredient of canh bóng, a kind of soup, is pig skin. Steamed pig brains can be found almost everywhere in a Vietnamese street. Still in the north of Vietnam, one of the most destabilizing Vietnamese dishes is certainly the tiết canh

. Made from raw duck or pig blood that has been partially coagulated in a broth rich in cartilage, it is accompanied by pieces of gizzards, crushed peanuts and mint. As in Chinese cuisine, there are Vietnamese dishes where the main ingredient is appreciated more for its texture than its taste. This is the case with gỏi sứa, a salad of jellyfish, grated carrot, coriander and black mushrooms. Jellyfish is used for its elasticity, but has no particular taste in itself. As for swallow's nest soup or súp yến sào, it is said to have medical virtues whereas its rarity makes it an extremely expensive dish.