2024

ABOUNA YEMATA CHURCH (GUH)

Churches cathedrals basilicas and chapels

This church is undoubtedly the most difficult to reach, due to its spectacular location, buried as it is in the heart of a rocky outcrop, which can be seen from Mariam Korkor at the end of the rocky façade stretching north-westwards. It's also the best-known church in Tigray. After a good hour's ascent, many give up on the final stretch: a small sheer drop pierced by irregular holes where you have to cling on hand and foot, a few dead branches serving incidentally as a handrail - and recently, at last, a rope to get over the most perilous wall passage. If you're afraid of heights, don't bother - it's mission impossible! Those who overcome the obstacle won't regret it: the entrance to the church is located at the end of a narrow passage running alongside a vertiginous cliff. A few meters of this is a guaranteed thrill. Once your eyes have become accustomed to the darkness, you'll discover the frescoes that adorn the sanctuary. They are described as the finest ever discovered in the Tigray region. On the entrance ceiling, nine figures in a circle are identified by inscriptions as eight of the apostles and, according to an unconfirmed theory, Christ's brother is depicted. On the other dome, eight figures in the same posture represent eight of the nine Syrian saints who, according to tradition, were responsible for the evangelization of the country from the 6th century onwards. The ninth, Abouna Yemata himself, is depicted on horseback on one of the walls. The freshness of the colors is an indication that these paintings date from the 15th or 16th century. The young priest in charge of this church will be happy to show you some richly illustrated and well-preserved ancient gheze bibles.

Please note. Due to the success of this church, which is very popular with tourists, the rope "helpers" have no qualms about trying to extort money from tourists (even though the rope was provided free of charge by an association to make the site a little safer). They ask for 100 birr each after helping you down, even if it means blocking your way if you don't comply. Don't let them do this to you, as it's not normal. Give them 50 birr for each person you help, and that's more than enough. The priest will also ask for 100 birrs per person, which is more like 50 birrs on top of the entrance fee.

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 Megab
2024

BETA GIYORGIS

Shrines and pilgrimage sites to visit
5/5
5 reviews
Monolithic church featuring a majestic cruciform monument spanning some 11 ... Read more
 Lalibela
2024

MARIAM KORKOR AND ABOUNA DANIEL CHURCHES

Churches cathedrals basilicas and chapels
5/5
1 review

If you have to limit yourself to just a few churches, this visit is a must in Tigray. Access to the churches is challenging, to say the least, but the panorama is spectacular throughout the hike. After a short walk across the fields at the foot of the cliff, the climb begins through a narrow, steep fault into which a natural staircase is carved. Once you've reached the first level, you can continue climbing either on the rock itself or along a winding, but less vertiginous path. Finally, after a good hour's climbing, the church's variegated facade comes into view. The interior is organized on a classical three-aisle plan, topped by a dome painted with a Greek cross motif. The arcaded walls feature a bestiary of human-headed animals, a winged monster and other more classical biblical figures and scenes. These paintings, by various artists, date from between the 13th and 17th centuries.

Not far away, along an impressive precipice, nestles the little cave church of Adouna Daniel, consisting of two richly decorated cavities. Getting there is quite magical, with an infinite panorama of splendid beauty. As the tabot has been transferred to Mariam Korkor, the sanctuary is considered abandoned. Before starting the descent, the extraordinary panorama embracing the Hausien plains, the Geralta mountains and, to the east, the Imbasneity mountains, helps you to regain your composure.

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 Megab
2024

ABREHA AND ATSHEBA CHURCH

Churches cathedrals basilicas and chapels
4.5/5
2 reviews
A large, interesting church with beautiful recent murals and finely ... Read more
 Wukro
2024

DABRA BIRHAN SELASSIE CHURCH

Religious buildings
4.5/5
2 reviews
Famous church much frequented by pilgrims during Fasika, featuring a wooden ... Read more
 Gondar
2024

NAKUTO LAB CHURCH

Religious buildings
4.5/5
2 reviews

Built in a cave, this is a troglodyte church in the Lasta mountains, more precisely the Abuna Youssef massif. It is actually located just above the church of Asheten Mariam (the two religious sites can be visited together), but is not linked to it by a path. It is the work of Na'akueto La'ab, nephew and adopted son of Lalibela and last ruler of the Zagoué dynasty in the 13th century (1212-1260). Legend has it that he prayed lying on swords and ascended to heaven body and soul. Paintings tell of his hunt for the bandit Tsarakems, who urged the population to believe in other gods and who eventually became an evangelist after receiving the king's pardon.

Inside the church, basins collect the holy water that trickles down from the Asheten Mariam church. The faithful consume it for its curative virtues and power to chase away evil spirits. Among the treasures on display are crowns, beautiful illuminated books, crosses and a gold and silver drum. The priest will be happy to show them off for your camera, so make the most of this privilege as the treasures of this church are priceless.

Some of the paintings clearly show a Byzantine influence in the gesture of the two fingers raised in blessing. At festive times, and especially at Christmas, the place becomes exceptional, as huge crowds come to pray fervently, sing and dance in this church. It's well worth the climb!

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 Montagnes Du Lasta
2024

SAINTE-MARIE-DE-SION

Churches cathedrals basilicas and chapels
4/5
1 review

The rectangular church, the ancient temple forbidden to women, was built in the 17th century by King Fasilidas on the site of what was probably the first church in Africa, erected in the early 4th century under the reign of Ezana. Enlarged in the 6th century by King Kaleb into a majestic cathedral, the edifice was probably destroyed after the fall of the kingdom of Aksum, and again in the 16th century during the Gragn raids.

Today's architecture, with its crenellated walls and three naves topped by domes, is reminiscent of Gondaran buildings. The building, where some Ethiopian sovereigns were crowned, houses an interesting collection of musical instruments and crosses.

In 1952, Emperor Haile Selassie undertook the construction of a new cathedral as a reminder of the spiritual importance of this cradle of Ethiopian Christianity. Also dedicated to St. Mary of Sion, the basilica stands out from the landscape.

Between the two churches stands a strange chapel, home to Ethiopia's thickest mystery, the legendary Ark of the Covenant. The chest which, according to the Bible, contains the Tables of the Law of the Ten Commandments. The Church of Ethiopia's account of the Ark is based on the Kebra Nagast, a 14th-century book that established the myth of Solomonic royalty. The Ark is said to have been offered by the Hebrew king Solomon to Queen Makeda of Sheba after his visit to Jerusalem. It was then taken to Ethiopia by their son Menelik. Today, it is hidden from the eyes of men and guarded by a voluntary prisoner, confined to the building for life. Off-limits to women, the building's basement contains an important treasure trove of crosses, crowns and musical instruments. In the sanctuary's garden, note the presence of large carved stone blocks, the bases of ancient thrones on which Ethiopian sovereigns were crowned, but which were probably also dedicated to pre-Christian divinities. Outside the enclosure, the small church of Arbatu Ensessa is worth a visit for its remarkable murals.

The church is once again part of history, tragically, as the Maryam Ts'iyon massacre took place here in December 2020 during the Tigray war. According to Amnesty International, some 750 people who had taken refuge in the church were executed in the square by the Ethiopian army and Amhara militia.

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 Axoum
2024

MENÉLIK II PALACE - UNITY PARK

Religious buildings
4/5
1 review
Imperial Palace transformed into Unity Park, a sightseeing tour opening in ... Read more
 Addis Ababa
2024

CHURCH OF THE HOLY TRINITY

Religious buildings
4/5
1 review
A church of astonishing architecture built in 1942 to commemorate the ... Read more
 Addis Ababa
2024

TEMPLE OF YEHA

Religious buildings

Considered the oldest building in Ethiopia, and indeed in the world, the temple of Yeha still conceals many mysteries. It was renovated in 2017 by a team of German archaeologists, but few walls of this royal residence remain standing. It must be said that it is contemporary with ancient Rome and the kingdom of Judea, in the5th century BC. The building could, according to some experts, be three centuries older and would have been dedicated to the Sabaean god Almuqa. Built in what would have been the capital of the pre-Axumite period by populations of South Arabian origin, the 18-metre-long by 15-metre-wide sanctuary is made of rubble, whose perfect assembly did not require the use of mortar. According to experts, this construction technique is similar to that used for the buildings at Marib, Yemen.

Excavations on the site of the temple, which was probably transformed into a church as early as the 6th century, as evidenced by the presence of a baptistery, have yielded some real archaeological treasures, some of which are on display in what can hardly be called a museum, at the entrance to the site.

In addition to the ruins of the temple, the fortified enclosure houses the church dedicated to one of the nine Syrian saints, Abba Aftsé, probably rebuilt on the site of a first6th-century sanctuary. The building houses two bas-reliefs with ibex heads, a sacred animal for the Sabeans, from the ruins of the nearby temple, as well as important religious treasures including imposing manuscripts.

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 Yeha
2024

DABRA DAMO MONASTERY

Religious buildings

Ethiopia's oldest monastery is located on a steep-walled amba (plateau) 1 km long and 500 m wide, with a circular view over the Hazemo massif (in Eritrea) and the Adwa mountains. Founded in the 6th century by Abouna Aregawi, one of the nine Syrian saints who initiated the second wave of Christianization in the kingdom, Dabra Damo became one of the country's greatest centers of Christianity and monasticism. Climbing the 15 m wall is only possible by means of a leather strap pulled from the summit. This link, called a jendé, symbolizes the serpent which, according to legend, lifted Aregawi to the top of the plateau on God's orders. The amba is occupied by a veritable village of small dwellings (home to some 300 monks), water cisterns, two churches and pastures where an exclusively male herd of cattle, donated by pilgrims, roams. The main sanctuary, built by King Gabra Masqal in the 6th century, is in the Axumite style, made of stone and wood with "monkey heads", and features splendid wooden coffered ceilings carved with geometric, plant and animal motifs. A smaller, more recent church has been built on the eastern slope of the plateau, where the saint retired to live as a hermit, and where, according to tradition, he disappeared from the sight of the living.

This place, which was often the refuge of kings during conflicts (Lebna Dengel, who died here, was buried in the 16th century), still attracts a multitude of pilgrims on the occasion of his feast day, celebrated on October 24.

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 Dabra Damo
2024

ABBA PANTALEWON MONASTERY

Religious buildings

Just 2 km from the tombs of Kaleb and Gabra Masqal, and after a short climb, we reach the monastery founded by one of the nine Syrian saints in the 6th century, Saint Pantaleon, who is said to have built this sanctuary on a site of pagan rites. It later became home to King Kaleb after his abdication. From here, it's a 20-minute walk to the church perched on a volcanic peak. The beautiful view of the surrounding area is enough to justify this little expedition.

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 Axoum
2024

MIKAEL IMBA CHURCH

Religious buildings

One of the country's most spectacular churches, it's a must on any itinerary in Tigray. It is monolithic, cut out of the rock on all four sides, and stands on the edge of an amba (Ethiopian plateau) that is not easily accessible. The ascent to the rock-cut church is short, but aided by a ladder. The sanctuary, at an altitude of 2,450 m, offers a majestic view of the surrounding countryside. Immediately one notices with dismay that the original doors have been replaced by vulgar iron panels, all of which have been extensively whitewashed, right down to the beautiful wooden frames.

As the 17 m wide façade suggests, the interior is vast, supported by large 6 m high cruciform pillars, but is not painted. Decoration is limited to a large Greek cross on the ceiling and other geometric motifs. The vast courtyard in front of the church dates back to a period before Lalibela's (it was used to treat infertile women and sick people). Nearby, deep cisterns dug into the rock retain water.

From the top of the plateau, where the monks' huts are located, you can admire the highly developed rural habitat below, with its fortified farmhouses with several main buildings. Visiting the church in the late afternoon allows you to take advantage of the low-angled light on the building's facade, as well as the superb luminosity of the surrounding landscape.

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 Atsbi
2024

DABRA SELAM CHURCH

Religious buildings
A highly visible cave church with a colorful facade in pure Axumite style, ... Read more
 Atsbi
2024

MIKAEL BARKA CHURCH

Religious buildings

Located 18 km to the right of the Wikro road, the church can be easily reached by a 15-minute walk to the top of a small hill. The interior probably dates back to the 14th century, although not to the time of the church's foundation, which was much earlier. It has undergone several restoration campaigns, including the addition of an unsightly facade in the 1960s. The hypogeum (troglodyte) monument is excavated in the shape of a cross and supported by twelve pillars and pilasters. The ceiling is richly decorated and sculpted. There is an adjoining convent.

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 Atsbi
2024

CHURCH OF KIRKOS

Religious buildings

Carved out of sandstone, the church is organized around a three-aisle plan supported by cruciform pillars linked by arches. The atrium features fine 15th-century wall paintings; the ceilings are carved with crosses, a motif also found on the side entrances. This semi-monolithic church was damaged by the armies of Queen Gudit in the 10th century. Recent improvements, such as a new roof, have been carried out to combat seepage.

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 Wukro
2024

MARIAM HIBETI CHURCH

Religious buildings

The church is only revealed at the last moment (perhaps hence its name "Hidden Mary"), near a small cloister. While the columned façade is imposing, the dark, damp interior - no doubt due to the sacred water basin it houses - is devoid of decoration. Before setting off on your walk, it's a good idea to make sure that the priest will accept your visit, for which permission is sometimes required. To reach the sanctuary, drive to Werkamba, 20 km north of Abbi-Addi on the road to Adwa, then to Adiha 14 km further on. From there, it's a 1-hour walk.

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 Abbi-Addi
2024

GABRIEL WUKIEN CHURCH

Religious buildings

Hidden in the greenery, 16 km from Abbi-Addi on the road to Adwa, the monastery church dominates a superb panorama. The entrance door is entirely painted, but poorly preserved. The iconography depicts the Annunciation protected by archangels, the three martyrs of Babylon and, higher up, the Trinity and enigmatic figures. The three-aisled interior is magnificently carved, leading some specialists to suggest that the monument dates from the 15th century. For priests, there is no doubt that the church is contemporary with King Gabra Masqal (6th century).

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 Abbi-Addi
2024

ABBA YOHANNI CHURCH

Religious buildings
Hypogeum church with three naves topped by domes and a natural terrace ... Read more
 Abbi-Addi
2024

DEGOUM SELASSIE CHURCH

Shrines and pilgrimage sites to visit

This multi-cavity hypogeum sanctuary, located close to a more recent church, was almost certainly excavated in pre-Christian times before being converted into a church. For specialists, its unusual location on the plain and its small size prove its original function as a tomb. Unless we're dealing with a pagan place of worship, which could provide clues as to the origin of dug-out churches. But these are only hypotheses. After the rainy season, it's not unusual for the crypt to flood.

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 Degoum