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Traditional music

As in the whole South-East Asian basin, in Thailand, the musical tradition is embodied by ensembles with their own functions: theatrical accompaniment, accompaniment for cults or official events. The most classical ensemble is the piphat, a court orchestra that is also often found in theatre and dance performances. It always includes wind instruments such as the pi or khlui, rhythmic and melodic percussion - xylophones, gongs, ching cymbals and a large taphon drum. The khrueang sai is a more popular ensemble consisting mainly of string instruments (fiddles, cithers). Its serene and languid music is carried by a solemn chant and is regularly heard during weddings and engagements. The mahori is a female orchestra traditionally composed of Thai courtesans. We find the instruments of the piphat and khrueang sai ensembles with a gentle enough playing to accompany dance and theatre. Two names to listen to: Montri Tramote and Luang Pradit Pairoh, essential to get an idea of traditional Thai music. One stage: The National Theatre of Bangkok has a good program of Thai folklore.

Mor lam and luk thung: popular music

If since the 1950s, Western popular music has been infused into the local culture, the country has kept some particularly Thai genres. Among them, two currents have been fundamental: luk thung and mor lam. The first is a kind of Thai country. Originally (in the 1920s), its first stars were called Ponsri Woranut or Suraphon Sombatjalern and told the story of rural life to tunes influenced by Latin America or American film music. More recently, in the 1980s, the genre became "electronic" under the impetus of the last giant of the genre: Pumpuang Duangjan. Carried away by a young illness in the 1990s, her success was such that her funeral brought together hundreds of thousands of fans, including several members of the royal family. The mor lam is a kind of evolution of luk thung. This genre, which comes from Isan (North-East), also deals with rural life or social themes, but is characterised by a lively rhythm and the vocal prowess (screams or onomatopoeia) of its performers. Transforming itself over time, the genre now resembles a fabulous psychedelic rock with often epic tracks. As for the orchestra, the mor lam almost always features a khên player (a mouth organ made up of about fourteen bamboo tubes) and a nimp, the three-stringed lute. Angkanang Kunchai was a priestess of the genre, she can be found in excellent compilations on the mor lam such as Sound of Siam

on Soundway Records.

Funnily enough, the mor lam is currently experiencing a second youth. Even an international success. Having fallen into disuse, once despised, considered kitsch and too "popu", the mor lam

is, ironically, becoming more and more popular among Bangkok's trendy youth. Better yet, its mesmerizing and hypnotic rhythms are seducing audiences all over the world and groups such as the Paradise Bangkok Molam International Band are stirring up clubs in France, Belgium, Germany, the United Kingdom and the Netherlands. Otherwise, in Thailand, one also frequently sees ramwong, literally meaning "dance in a circle", which in the 1940s was intended to counter the Western influence among the elite (very fond of ballroom dances such as the foxtrot). Also noteworthy are the kantrum, the boisterous popular music of the Khmers of Thailand, and the saw, a ritual and often improvised music from the North. Karaoke, although not a genre of music, remains one of the most popular ways to live it on the spot.

Classical music

Since its incursion into the territory, classical music has been the preserve of the wealthiest classes in Thailand. Western classical music was introduced into the country in the 19th century, under the impetus of the royal family, who greatly appreciated it. Princess Maha Chakri Siridorn herself plays several instruments and presides over many events. The pianist Phra Chen Duriyang, author of the national anthem, greatly contributed to making the great European composers (Bach, Mozart, Beethoven) known in his country. It is also he who created the first Thai symphony orchestra at the beginning of the 20th century. He trained many musicians including Bhumibol Adulyadej, the former king. That said, it was not until the 1980s that the first major orchestra saw the light of day with the Bangkok Symphony Orchestra. A state ensemble under the patronage of the royal family, its repertoire was once conservative, but is increasingly opening up with the ambition of becoming the most important in Southeast Asia. Yet the most prestigious and internationally revered remains the Thailand Philharmonic Orchestra. Conducted by Icelandic conductor Gudni Emilsson, who is more adventurous in his repertoire - the modernity of a Mahler suits him well - the TPO regularly plays for national events or for the government. It can be seen at the very impressive Prince Mahidol Hall, Thailand's largest concert hall, located at Mahidol University in Nakhon Pathom. Last but not least is the Siam Philharmonic Orchestra. The Siam Philharmonic Orchestra was founded in 2002 as a small chamber ensemble dedicated to Thai classical music and the works of Mozart and Haydn, and has since established itself as the resident orchestra of the Bangkok Opera House. Its director is Trisdee na Patalung, probably the best Thai conductor today. He can be seen at the Thailand Cultural Center. The Bangkok Opera is an interesting experience. Founded and directed by the author S. P. Somtow, it has taken the decision to stage Thai texts in a Western style or to present Thai variations of European classics.

It would be inappropriate to talk about classical music in Thailand without talking about its star: Narong Prangcharoen. As a multi-award winning and acclaimed composer, he is played all over the world (especially in the United States) and is regularly praised for his captivating melodies and ingenious orchestrations.

Jazz

Let's put it bluntly: while there is a real jazz scene in Thailand, local artists are struggling to gain recognition beyond their borders. In fact, if we have to name the most famous jazz artist in the country, it would probably be... the late king of Thailand Bhumibol Adulyadej! Yes, an accomplished jazz musician and composer, he composed close to fifty pieces during his lifetime and even labelled his style "Phleng Phra Ratcha Nipon" ("royal composition"). Another great local figure, Eua Suntornsanan was the first to mix Western and Thai music and founded the first local jazz band: Suntaraporn. Thailand is a country that loves jazz and the number of places in the country where you can listen to it is the best proof of this. Starting with Bangkok. And here, the institution is by far the Saxophone Pub. A must in the capital to listen to jazz and blues with an international program and a trendy but very warm atmosphere. The other big favourite of the locals is Brown Sugar. A pocket-sized venue, it is quickly packed, but the quality of the concerts and the good mood quickly make you forget the suffocated space.More uptight, The Living Room is an excellent jazz hall, but its location on the first floor of a luxury hotel makes the place a bit colder than the previous ones. However, the quality is there, and it is often the place where international headliners perform. The Bamboo Bar is no less legendary. Also located in a prestigious hotel in Bangkok, the place is particularly stylish, the atmosphere sophisticated and the stage often very well equipped.

Thai rock and phleng phuea chiwit

Rock music was born in Thailand in the 1970s, linked of course to the American presence at war with its Vietnamese neighbour. Artists such as Jimi Hendrix and The Doors were to have a crazy influence on the creation of Bangkok and bring out musicians such as Chuckie Thanyarat and Lam Morrison, the country's "guitar hero". Very quickly, the country will know a heavy metal and hard rock scene particularly active between the 1970s and 1980s with icons like Meat and Leather or The Olan Project. But nothing represents Thai rock better than phleng phuea chiwit. Meaning "songs for life", this committed rock from the country is steeped in Marxist theories and really took off with the 1973 revolts (against the current dictatorship). If Caravan is the godfather of the genre, it is Carabao who will become the legend by selling four million copies of their fifth album Made in Thailand in 1984. Since then, they have been nicknamed the "Rolling Stones of Asia" and considered as such. Sometimes more folk, phleng phuea chiwit is also played with Thai instruments such as phin, wut, khluay and saw.

String music

String music is less a style than a calibration of Thai pop to adapt it to the vast majority of the country's radio waves and TV channels. In short, it is a synonym for "mainstream". The term encompasses all genres (rock, dance, hip-hop, pop) and refers only to highly marketed artists. String music first appeared in the 1970s and really took off two decades later when the boy band became a worldwide hit. Today it retains the same "bubblegum pop" spirit (music designed and marketed for teenagers) with sounds and rhythms that are often recycled, rose-water lyrics and romanticized clips. One of the most popular figures in Thai string music is Tata Young, a young Thai-American, now famous throughout Southeast Asia, who is often compared to Madonna for her sultry side. Another iconic name of the genre is Thongchai McIntyre. A Thai of Scottish origin, he is the idol of the young (and not so young), a bit like our national Johnny... They paved the way for a new generation of starlets like Bodyslam (and its revered leader: Toon) in rock, a big national hit, or Palmy, a Belgian-Thai dpop singer. While they are policed, standardized and formatted for sale, these string bands nevertheless incorporate many specifically Thai elements to seduce the market.

Theater and dance

True postcards of the country, theatre and dance are two particularly popular and traditional forms of expression in Thailand. Very much influenced by the Môns and Khmers as well as by India, theatre is divided into four main families. Registered with UNESCO, khone is a dramatic theatre danced with masks. This classical form, which stems from ancient rituals held in temples, is performed by silent dancers while the story is sung by a choir on the side of the stage. It is the rich details of the masks and costumes that distinguish the roles on stage. Derived from the khone, the lakhone resembles the first one in its costumes, but offers more expressive performances where the body is in constant action within graceful choreographies. The likay, on the other hand, is a very light and popular dance theatre interspersed with comic interludes, daring jokes and songs. It is not uncommon to still see performances on makeshift outdoor stages. A shadow theatre of Chinese origin, the nang is five centuries old. It features anthropomorphic puppets presented in profile against the light, between a screen and lighting. One of the best places to see traditional theatre in Bangkok is the Sala Chalermkrung Royal Theatre. The place is beautiful, the shows are surtitled in English (the place is one of the most touristy in the city) and the tickets are included in the price of those of the Grand Palais (a shuttle takes you there from the latter). Also, you can see theatre and dance of exceptional quality at the National Theatre of Bangkok. Adjacent to the National Museum, it programs traditional dances and Thai music, a journey within a journey

In Thailand, dance performances and theatre are often confused since dance is a recurring instrument of theatrical dramaturgy. That said, dances can exist independently in ritual or folklore performances. Although they are all very different, they all have in common that they are treasures of flexibility and grace where each gesture has a precise meaning. The most emblematic folk dances are the fone thai, which includes the fone tian (candle dance), fone ngiou (scarf dance), fone leb (fan nail dance), fonemahn goum ber (butterfly dance) and fonemahn mong kol (dance of joy). Another very famous dance, ram muay is a ritual performed before each boxing match, as in the case of muay thai. Fighters can also perform the wai khrou, a dance intended to honour its master. The wai is an annual ceremony performed by classical dance groups to honour their ancestors and artistic precursors.

If we want to see Western ballet, it will be foreign companies who will offer it at events such as the Bangkok International Dance and Music Festival. Foreign cultural institutes such as the Goehte Institut or the Alliance française also offer some throughout the year. For contemporary creation, the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre is the perfect address. This ultra-modern white building immaculé́, interposed between the MBK and the Siam Center, is an open door to contemporary art in the fields of art, music, theatre and dance. Very dynamic, it is the address of Bangkok to remember in terms of contemporary creation!