Hunting and fishing: lifestyles that are still well established

This traditional way of life still exists today in Greenland. More than 2,500 families still depend directly on it, especially in the east and north of the country. This is the case, for example, for more than 90% of the population of Tiniteqilaaq. In 2009, 2,434 full-time Piniartoq (hunter) licences and 8,031 part-time Sunngiffimmi (free time hunter) licences were issued, representing 18% of the total population. While amateur hunters are not allowed to resell the products of their peaches, they may exceptionally do so for meat, provided that they do not cause unfair competition. Greenlanders are also allowed to hunt reindeer, muskoxen, polar hares and birds, but it is mainly the purchase of fish, including halibut and shrimp by factories (sold abroad), that Greenlanders live on today. Fishing quotas are set annually on the basis of biological advice provided by Pinngortitaleriffik (Greenland Institute of Natural Resources) in cooperation with several international fisheries organisations and also in close cooperation with WWF. Generally speaking, fishermen make a very good living, especially with global warming, which is increasing the number of fish. Conversely, there is a threat to the traditional hunting culture for the same reason (fragile sea ice, unstable weather conditions...).

The kayak, an Inuit invention

The kayak - or qajaq as it is called in Greenland, "man's boat" or "hunter's boat" - is an ancient invention that was essential for hunting and fishing. It has become the symbol par excellence of the Inuit people's adaptation to the extreme conditions of the Arctic. From an early age, Inuit learned to balance on a rope and manoeuvre on these boats. Nowadays, it is still used for this purpose especially in the north of the country (the Qaanaaq region for example) where it is required to hunt narwhals in the traditional way, i.e. with a kayak and a spear thrown in the hand (much more difficult than modern hunting with a rifle!).

Dog sledding, the ultimate transportation

If the practice of kayaking may have weakened in recent decades in Greenland, it is also the case for sledding, but for a different reason: global warming and therefore the uncertainty of the strength of the ice pack or the lack of snow. But if the conditions are favourable, Greenlanders will always prefer their dogs to snowmobiles: lighter, safer, more economical, without running out of petrol! However, Greenlanders are increasingly continuing to fish by boat during the winter, which makes it much easier for them to do so. This is especially true for the region of Ilulissat and less so for the north where, logically, it is colder. Dog sledding is allowed only north of the Arctic Circle on the west coast and in all cities on the east and north coasts of the country. The art of mushing is generally learned from a very young age, it is essential to succeed in leading with authority tough Greenlandic dogs with incredible strength and an extraordinary ability to read the environment (smell holes or water points, usually a bad sign on the ice pack...). Techniques differ according to regions and terrain. Thus, you will see different types of sleds according to the region and therefore the terrain: in the Thule region in the north, they are rather heavy and massive because of the long distances; in the Ilulissat region in Disko Bay, they are rather short and maneuverable because of the steep mountains; in the east, they are rather light (inspired by the explorers Nanssen and Paul-Émile Victor as well as the teams from Europe and Alaska) because of the high mountains and a greater amount of snow. There is also a noticeable difference: the dogs are all fanned, but two by two in the east, while they are tied one by one in the west. In order to adapt to uneven terrain, all sleds are assembled using cords and tendons (without nails). In the past, mushers used sealskin to make their lines, but nowadays nylon is used. The whip (iperaataq), on the other hand, is still made of sealskin.

Modernity and identity

Greenland is not just a land of tradition, and some Greenlanders take offence when they see their country reduced to Inuit folklore only. A mix of cultures has developed since then and a new identity has been built. Modern Greenland is a clever blend of modernity and Inuit traditions. When you arrive, you will probably be surprised by the crowded airports, busy fishing ports, modern businesses, international brands, educational institutions, contemporary design architecture of some buildings, cinemas, skateparks, cafes, mobile phones... far from the stereotypical view of the Arctic! Did you know, for example, that 98% of the population uses digital telecommunications services? Or that Greenland, through its company Royal Greenland, is the world's largest supplier of cold-water shrimp? A vibrant urban life can be found in the country's largest cities of Nuuk, Ilulissat and Sisimiut, while smaller towns continue to live predominantly traditional lives with fishing and sealing as subsistence activities.

Greenland's national character has been gradually established throughout the country's history, notably when it was granted autonomy from Denmark in 1979 and again in 2009. In spite of a certain populism on the part of some of the political parties in power, a majority of Greenlanders wish to maintain a privileged relationship with Denmark as an equal partner rather than as a country to be divorced from at all costs. The result is a strong identity disorder, similar to all colonized countries: the "forced" appropriation of the culture of the colonizing country and then the need to reconnect with its culture of origin (read for this the remarkable work by Albert Memmi entitled Portrait of the Colonized). Unlike Canada, Denmark - and in particular the much-loved Queen Margrethe II - is helping and encouraging Greenlanders to reconnect with their Inuit culture.

Inuit, Eskimo, Kalaallit, Greenlanders, Danes: what do you call them?

So many words to designate one and the same people, enough to cause trouble! Here is a quick definition of each term to clarify the problem a little more.

Inuit. This term refers to the Aboriginal peoples living in the Arctic regions of Canada, Alaska and Greenland. In Greenlandic and Inuktitut (Canada), it means "humans," "people" and Aboriginal people at the same time. It is the plural of Inuk. In Greenland, most people are not used to using Inuit since they call themselves kalaallit. Some nevertheless use it without any problem, including independentist political parties (the Inuit party) or the younger generation who frequently use this hashtag on Facebook or Instagram: #proudtobeinuk. In any case, if you want to use the term Inuit, perhaps the most judicious way would be to say: the Inuit of Greenland.

Eskimo. This term would come from an Algonquin word from Canada meaning not "eaters of raw meat," but "those who speak a foreign language. It was later taken up by the first French-Canadian missionaries and popularized by explorers in the 19th century, until it was spelled "Eskimo" and gave rise to the science of eskimology (for which a research centre exists at the University of Copenhagen). You will often hear that this name is pejorative, but in reality Greenlanders do not really refute this term and sometimes use it to refer to the old days. For example, "You, you're an Eskimo" can mean "you, you're very traditional"!

Kalaallit - Greenlandic. Kalaallit means "the Greenlanders", it is the plural of Kalaaleq. This name was chosen by the Greenlanders themselves. It is therefore undoubtedly the best name to designate the inhabitants of Greenland since it is a self-designation that includes all the indigenous inhabitants of the country. However, it does not include people of foreign origin who are often referred to as " qallunaat ", i.e. "white people" or "Danes".

Danes. Although the Greenlanders have been granted enhanced self-government, they are still officially Danish citizens as a self-governing territory of Denmark. Nevertheless, the country is officially called Greenland (Kalaallit Nunaat) and the inhabitants of Greenland are officially called Greenlanders (Kalaallit) with Greenlandic as their official language (known as Kalaallisut). Moreover, even if Greenlandic nationality does not actually exist and is not recognised in many countries, they have the right to apply for a Greenlandic (non-European) passport.