Marine Mammals
More than 20 species of dolphins and whales have been recorded in Polynesia. In order to avoid the rigours of the austral winter, Antarctic humpback whales migrate to the temperate waters of Polynesia to give birth, rest and nurse in safety. Thus, every year from the end of July to the end of October, the mothers and their calves frequent the coasts of the Austral (Rurutu in particular), the Society, and the Tuamotu to a lesser extent.
In addition to the beautiful concentration of whales and calves during this season, Polynesia is home to a large population of dolphins, who like to frolic near the passes, such as in Rangiroa in the Tiputa pass. The most common species are the bottlenose dolphin (mainly observed in the Marquesas Islands, the Tuamotus and Bora Bora), and the long-billed dolphin (more accustomed to the clear and warm waters of the Society Islands), of which more than 200 specimens have been counted by the American marine biologist Michael Poole in about ten years of observation.Sharks, no psychosis
A dense predatory fauna awaits you near the passes and off the reefs. Indeed, His Majesty the shark (Mao) also inhabits Polynesian waters. But don't worry, as you have been satiated for a long time by the density of fish, you have nothing to fear from him.
The grey shark, which is about 2 m long, is the most common: it would even be surprising if you didn't come across one when diving. The lemon shark, which is slightly yellowish, and the tiger shark can reach up to 4m. Extremely powerful, the tiger shark must be respected and kept in eye contact, even if no attacks have ever been recorded. At greater depths, the great hammerhead shark usually roams at the bottom of the channels, at 50 m depth, looking for leopard rays or small mantas. However, it is possible to spot them at 15 m if they have found prey of interest; it is at Rangiroa that they are most often observed.
Closer to the beaches, attracted by the enticing smell of fishing rods or the waste of generous cooks, blacktip sharks (1.6 m at the most) are generally the delight of amateur photographers. Sleeper and white tip sharks also frequent calm waters; in Fakarava, a pleasant seaside snack is called the Sleeper Shark Snack, and rightly so..A fish parade
Isolated, sweet Polynesia has nearly 800 species of fish, divided into 90 families, but their abundance and beauty always surprises. A piece of bread in the sea, and thousands of colourful fishes run to see nothing more: coachmen, surgeons, groupers, napoleons, picassos, triggerfish, parrotfish, sergeant-majors, long-nosed nasons, clownfish, angelfish, globefish, porcupine fish, butterflyfish, zebrafish... The list is long! Just put your head underwater to join them, and it is quietly and without shyness that they will come to meet you.
The most dangerous fish are the stonefish, which lie sneakily at the bottom with their stone costume, waiting for you to step on them to inoculate you with their deadly poison. Dragon fish are just as dangerous, but they're attractively beautiful despite their red and white spines. So beware!
Rays - stingrays, stingrays, leopards and spotted rays - also move gracefully in the lagoons, and it is not uncommon to encounter them. The mythical Manta rays, on the other hand, are more frequent in the falls and passes than in the lagoons (except in Maupiti and Tikehau), but you may be lucky enough to see an enigmatic dark spot under your dugout (not so enigmatic, then!). This sumptuous species can reach a wingspan of up to 4 metres. Be careful though: if the stingrays are not aggressive, we often forget that their tail has spines. Swimmers or divers who inadvertently step on them would be exposed to severe local trauma. Fatal stings are very rare, but in any case the accident is very painful.Turtles in danger
Shy and cautious, they come to lay their eggs on deserted beaches. Five species of marine turtles are recorded in Polynesia: the leatherback turtle (Dermochelys coriacea), the green turtle (Chelonia mydas), the hawksbill turtle (Eretmochelys imbricata), the loggerhead turtle (Caretta caretta) and the olive ridley turtle (Lepidochelys olivacea
), all endangered and therefore protected. Sacred animals in Polynesia, turtles were once the object of precise rituals; in some atolls, they were even raised on a small scale in family parks. Since 2020, the Isles of Scilly and Bellinghausen Atoll (motu One), in the Society Archipelago, have been classified as a strict nature reserve. Despite this, the population has declined significantly: on the atolls of Mopelia and Scilly, a 94% drop in the number of specimens has been recorded. Poaching remains a constant danger, and marine reserves do not always prevent it.Mollusks and shellfish
Some 1,500 species of molluscs also inhabit Polynesian waters, with greater endemicity in the Marquesas Islands (about 20%), the Austral Islands, and to a lesser extent in the Society and the Tuamotu-Gambier.
The Tahiti lagoon is also known for its collectible shells: some, such as porcelain (Cypraea tigris) or the Golden Fleece (Conus textile), have become rare. The giant newt (Charonia tritonis), the red helmet (Cassis rufa) and the horned helmet (Cassis cornuta) are on the verge of extinction. Natural stocks of pearl oysters (Pinctada margaritifera
) have been overexploited and the genetic diversity of the species has been reduced. Here and there, other shells are scattered on the sand, such as spotted vermetids and beautiful clams with fluorescent lips. Be careful if you plan to bring a shell back in your suitcase: some are dangerous. This is particularly the case of the cone, sharp as a spindle, which injects its poison when you touch its tip. So watch your hands, and always check that the shell is empty!Coral reefs
The richest region of the coral world is in the West Pacific and Southeast Asia. Polynesia lies on the eastern border of this region and is therefore relatively poor in coral species, but the extent of the territory implies a varied and specific fauna. There are about 170 species of coral, belonging to about 50 different genera. Eighteen of these species are endemic to the region.
Unfortunately, the latest studies are clear: the reefs of several of the Society's islands have become dangerously degraded in recent decades. Coral decay or imbalance in algal populations are dark warnings. Chronic cyclones and the infestation of Acanthaster (a predatory coral starfish species) are other concerns, as is the exploitation of black coral in the Leeward Islands (used for jewellery), and population growth that is threatening the stability of this rich ecosystem. The fringing part of the islands is of course the most affected and most exposed to human activities.Birds
Few birds (manu) were used for a long time for the chiefs' finery. Some spend their whole life on the same island, others are migratory, often threatening the first ones in their environment.
Some very common species can be seen everywhere, such as the Vini, a cute little grey headed bird. If you keep your eyes open at high altitudes, you will also spot Gould's Harrier, a raptor, and the Society Salangane. Above the sea, frigates, gannets and petrels are flying around. As for the kaveka (sooty tern), hundreds of thousands of them are concentrated on certain motus in the Tuamotu lagoons or in the Marquesas; excellent omelettes are made from their eggs..Other small animals
You won't encounter any dangerous or poisonous animals: not a single snake, scorpion or spider! Geckos and margouillats, small, useful and rather pretty reptiles, eat insects including mosquitoes. Quite abundant, the latter can carry ferocious diseases such as dengue fever, zika and chikungunya. Nonos, small voracious flies, are less dangerous but more aggressive. You will also certainly meet these horrible cockroaches, which can measure up to 5 cm! This does not necessarily indicate a lack of hygiene, it is the lot of all these hot destinations with a tropical and humid climate. The most dangerous insects are the bark beetles, or centimetres long bark beetles, which can grow up to 20 cm long and inject venom with their hooks. Painful, but not deadly!
A lush vegetation
Dense vegetation covers the islands with a thick colourful carpet, from the beaches to the top of the mountains. The vast valleys of the large islands shine with a thousand red dots spread by the flamboyant people on their hillsides, while the frangipani flowers add yellow, and the tiare flower with many white dots
Vegetation varies greatly from one archipelago to another. On the atolls, the difficult conditions due to salt and poor soils have only allowed very few species to settle. Although a vineyard has been planted in Rangiroa, with a surprising success! In the Austral Islands, on the other hand, the climate is so cool that one can grow all sorts of fruits and vegetables; Rurutu is even said to be the "granary of Tahiti". As for the Marquesas, they have a few endemic varieties. Generally speaking, coconut trees, pandanus, tamanu and fruit trees such as the famous bread tree(uru), mango, papaya, guava, banana and noni (very nauseating but a true natural medicine according to some), are the most frequently encountered. Moorea is also well known for its pineapple plantations.
The land of flowers
The divine floral scents that perfume the tropical setting remain for many the most imperishable memory of a stay in Polynesia. Moreover, if you travel with Air Tahiti Nui, hostesses and stewards will offer you a tiare flower, the emblem of Tahiti, as soon as you board the plane: this is where your journey of the senses begins... This flower and its bewitching perfume will accompany you everywhere in Polynesia.
Among other essences, frangipani gives yellow and white flowers with a strong scent. The flamboyant one, native to Madagascar, spreads small red flowers decorating the valleys. Hibiscus flowers in several colours: yellow, orange and sometimes bright red. Jasmine, ylang-ylang and spearmint are also part of the olfactory landscape.
Made into necklaces, crowns, worn by ear or in the hair, to decorate the house or the car, or simply placed in a bowl of water to embalm, flowers are an essential part of life in Tahiti.
If you want to get into Polynesian fashion, know that the flower is worn on the left ear if your heart is caught, on the right if it is not... And unofficially, we have been told, on the left upside down if you are caught but open!
