Stretching along the Himalayas between its two great neighbours China and India, Nepal, despite its jagged peaks, also has fertile valleys where the Nepalese cultivate many products: wheat, rice, barley, vegetables, fruits and of course legumes such as lentils, which are essential in the country. A mixture of Tibetan and Indian influences, Nepalese cuisine is nevertheless moderately spicy: garlic, cumin, ginger, turmeric, Sichuan pepper, not forgetting jimbu, a dried herb close to garlic, which is widely used. Noodles and steamed bites of Sino-Tibetan origin are also popular in the country. Nepal is mainly Hindu and the numerous celebrations such as the Kumari, Dussehra or Divali festivals are an opportunity to discover the richness and flavours of Nepalese cuisine.
The king dish
The basis of the Nepalese diet is the national dish: dal bhat tarkari. The recipe is simple: white rice, a thick soup of lentils(dal), a vegetable curry(tarkari) and the famous achards. Sometimes a bit of meat is added to the daily diet. This dish is served on a compartmentalized tray in the middle of which a large quantity of rice sits. The Newar minority replaces boiled rice with crushed rice flakes(chiura), the plains people with wheat patties(roti). The housewife's touch isachar, a fermented and spicy vegetable-based condiment, each with its own recipe. You should be prepared to eat it repeatedly during your trip. Indeed outside the cities it is often the common dish in the shops, especially in the countryside.
Eating habits
In terms of eating habits, the Nepalese generally eat two meals a day: in the morning, they have breakfast around 11am and then dinner around 7pm. Breakfast is only optional, but when it is taken, it is early (around 6am).
Meat is rare, unlike dairy products: yoghurt, tea with milk, whey. Although the Nepalese are not as keen on vegetarianism as their Indian neighbours, there are many specialities based on vegetables and cereals.
Common dishes
If repeated consumption of dal bhat becomes tiring, other tasty dishes can awaken your taste buds, such as chow mein, a specialty of Chinese origin based on stir-fried noodles and vegetables, fried
rice (rice fried with vegetables or meat) or boiled or fried Tibetan momos or ravioli in the shape of a purse that is stuffed with meat or vegetables.
Choila is a very spicy sautéed meat dish often made from buffalo, but also prepared with pork, chicken or even duck. Sekuwas come in the form of chicken or lamb skewers. More colourful, thealoo gobi mixes potatoes and cauliflower with curry. The very tasty saag is a compote of leafy vegetables served with flat bread usually called roti. Roasted salt, on the other hand, is not really a bread but more a ring of fried dough flavoured with cardamom. For those who hesitate,samay baji
turns out to be an assortment of several dishes: rice, dal, choila, etc. Among the dishes on the go, let us also retain the
chataamari or Nepalese pizza, a rice cake topped with meat (chicken or pork) and various vegetables, common on street stands, as well as
pakoras, fried vegetable croquettes. Other specialties include
chhurpi, yak milk cheese in the form of small cubes, and
sukuti, a type of meat - buffalo meat - that is dried.
Sweets and drinks
Among the desserts, the choice will often be kheer, a rice pudding or halva, a spicy semolina cake. Unless you prefer barfi, a type of sweetened condensed milk caramel, or yomari
, a purely Nepalese dessert in the shape of a small amphora made from rice flour topped with palm syrup. Unmistakable, masala tea, Nepal's national drink, consists of black tea, spices and milk. However beers are also popular (Everest, Gorkha, Arna, Nepal Ice and foreign brands: Carlsberg, Tuborg or Kingfisher), as well as Kukhri rum and vodka from the Kathmandu distilleries. Without forgetting the
chang, a milky millet beer, titrating at about 4° - the
tongba is similar but stronger (6-8°). Stronger, the
raksi, a newar rice alcohol, is similar to sake. Fruit brandies from Tukuche and Marpha (in the Kali Gandaki valley) are worth trying.
Enjoying yourself Nepal
Timetable Nepal
In Nepal. Restaurants are generally open from 8am to 10pm, or even 9pm, especially in small towns. Beyond that, dinner is out!
In Bhutan. The packages offered by Bhutanese agencies include room and board, so you'll eat most of your meals in the restaurants of the hotels where you'll be staying. These are generally buffets of continental, Indian, Chinese and Bhutanese dishes. Lunch is often taken in roadside restaurants with well-organized buffets. You can also choose your own restaurant during your trip by taking out an e-visa directly online.
Budget & Tips Nepal
In Nepal. In Kathmandu and Pokhara, you'll be spoilt for choice by the wide range of world cuisine on offer: Nepalese, Tibetan, Indian, Chinese, Mexican, Italian... Make the most of it, as variety is far from the order of the day in the provinces and on the treks, where dhal bat reigns supreme!
Bhutan. If you've had enough of hotel buffets (which can get a bit monotonous after a few days, it's true!), you can try a local establishment. Bhutanese restaurants are generally very affordable. However, you should be aware that the wait can be long, and beware of spicy food, because while the Bhutanese are used to it, our Western palates are more fragile!
What costs extra Nepal
In Nepal, tipping is not compulsory, but it is welcome. It is customary to leave 5-10% of the bill.
The local way Nepal
In Nepal. You don't eat from your neighbor's plate, and you don't share cutlery, otherwise the food is considered impure! While the majority of Hindu Nepalese are vegetarians, the Newars of the Kathmandu valley are big meat eaters.
Bhutan. The Bhutanese love ema datsi, peppers in a cheese sauce. Don't hesitate to ask to taste what your guides are eating to find out what Bhutanese chillies really taste like!
To be avoided Nepal
Nepal. If there's no cutlery, eat with your right hand, the left being reserved for less noble tasks. For carnivores, meat is scarce outside the big cities, and we strongly advise against the often tainted sukuti (dried meat) you'll find in the mountains.
In Bhutan. Meals are a time of sharing for the Bhutanese. So don't be offended if your guide "abandons" you to eat with his colleagues. Not least because he'd rather eat ema datsi than try the dishes reserved for you, which are too poorly seasoned for his taste.
Smokers Nepal
In Bhutan, as in all public places, smoking is prohibited in restaurants.
Take a break Nepal
Timetable Nepal
Bars and cafés are generally open until 11pm on weekdays, and until midnight on Friday and Saturday nights (in Bhutan they are closed on Tuesdays).
Budget & Tips Nepal
In Nepal. Taking a break in a café is a good way to connect to the Internet: most have free wifi access. Between 5pm and 8pm, happy hour is de rigueur in the big cities.
Bhutan. Outside Thimphu and Paro, cafés are still rare in Bhutan.
Age restrictions Nepal
In both countries, alcohol consumption is only permitted from the age of 18.
What's very local Nepal
Nepal. More and more places offering Indian-style teas, pastries and snacks with samossas are springing up around the country.
Bhutan. Except in chic hotels, it's hard to find an espresso in Bhutan. Everywhere else, it's always instant that's served. On cold days, try a Tibetan butter tea: the Bhutanese love it!