Discover Russia : The Trans-Siberian Railway

The train of all records

The Trans-Siberian adventure began in the 1860s with the idea of unifying and consolidating the integrity of the Siberian territory. It was not until the reign of Alexander III that a project became a reality; in 1883, the construction of the Ekaterinburg-Tyumen line began, the train finally crossed the Urals! Imagine these engineers being sent to a virgin and wild Siberia, with the mission of determining the best route. The Czar entrusted the work to his son: in 1891, the future Nicholas II laid the foundation stone in Vladivostok; work also began at the other end of the line, in Ufa. Mileage, technical prowess, working time and conditions, financial investment: the Trans-Siberian Railway construction site is a record-breaking one. In 25 years, 7,500 km of track, 3,500 stations, depots and infrastructure have been built on extreme territories, including permafrost areas, steep reliefs, swampy areas and gigantic rivers. Among these achievements is the 212 km-long Circumbaïkal breakthrough, literally torn out of the mountains, which bypasses Lake Baikal (Irkutsk-Ulan-Ude line. You can take a steam or conventional train during the day to enjoy the view of the lake). As the work progresses and the trains run, Siberia is (finally) coming out of its isolation. It is experiencing a spectacular demographic and economic boom. New cities are springing up, such as Novo-Nikolayevsk in 1893, which became Novosibirsk and is now Russia's^{third largest} city. The train also has its strategic advantages: while the empire is in crisis, Nicholas II can move at high speed; during the Great War, it provides the military troops with a system of supply and withdrawal. Above all, it facilitates trade with China. He even consolidated the Franco-Russian alliance against the Austro-Hungarian Empire and Germany in exchange for credit and the involvement of the Eiffel factories, which supplied metal components for structural work. During the Soviet era, the Trans-Siberian network was considerably expanded, with several socialist republics connected to it. Increasingly powerful and fast convoys were run on it (for more information, visit the West Siberian Rail Museum in Novosibirsk). The industrial and cultural revolutions are in progress; thousands of people are displaced by the authorities, in addition to the famous prisoners of the gulag, because it is also a question of "sovietizing" each piece of territory. Nowadays, even if it is considered by many Russians as an ordeal, it remains no less practical (regular journeys, accessibility of stations, etc.), cheap, therefore very popular!

The different lines

There are four of them, on which many trains run - the most famous, and fastest, are the so-called Rossiya 001 (departing from Vladivostok, runs on even days) and 002 (departing from Moscow, odd days) trains. The Russian railway companies (RJD or RZD) are the main owner/operator. Trans-Siberian lines connect many Russian and foreign cities, as well as related railway networks. As a result, you do not buy a single Trans-Siberian Railway ticket, but one to several routes, i.e. as many tickets as you need to reach your destination. You catch and leave the train where you want, in the direction of your choice, within the limits of your visas (Russian and others).

Moscow-Vladivostok line

: the Trans-Siberian Railway, 9,288 km. Includes other routes, including the Moscow - Kazan loop.

Ulaanbaatar-Oude-Ulan-Bator

: the Trans-Mongolian Railway, inaugurated in 1950, 2,080 km. Direct trains Moscow - Ulan-Bator.

Chita-Beijing

: the Transmandchurian, 2,536 km, opened in 1903. China is the main operator. Direct trains Moscow - Beijing.

Baikal-Maguistral Love

: the BAM, 3,834 km, put into service in 1984, departing from Taïchet to Sovietskaya-Gavan (port city of Khabarovsk, Russian Far East). Several luxury (and private) trains run on these lines. Decoration, comfort, catering and tourist programming with French-speaking guides, everything is 5-star: the Golden Eagle, www.goldeneagleluxurytrains.com; the Tsars' Gold, www.train-or-des-tsars.fr; Imperial Russia (since 2014, operated by RJD/RZT, www.train-russie-imperiale.fr). Finally, since 2013, there are plans to build new tracks (in the Altai, for example) and expand the BAM line (the BAM-2).

Purchase of tickets

It has been considerably simplified in recent years: the train runs on Moscow time, but tickets have recently been sold in local time. You pick them up as you travel. Beware, some sections are less regularly served, others are very busy in summer: book a little in advance (especially around Lake Baikal and on the Transmongolian line). It may not be possible to book a trip on the Internet for the same day, as tickets are issued and distributed during the opening hours of Moscow offices. It's 9am in Irkutsk, you decide to book the 2:30pm train to Ulan-Ude? White cabbage, since it is 4am in the capital.

You have three options

The simplest: online, on www.russianrailways.com(the international website of RJD/RZT) and www.russiantrain.com. These sites are translated into French and English.

The most expensive, via a travel agency, in France or Russia. It takes care of everything, depending on your itinerary; all you have to do is get on board

The most adventurous (and cheaper), in the train station, with the help of an online translator if you don't speak Russian. Arrive early, as the stations are quite large

Prices vary according to the booking sites (sometimes more expensive on foreign sites), date, trains, travel time and class. As a (very) rough guide, the Irkutsk/Uland-Ude journey takes 9 to 8 hours. It can cost between €125 (train Rossiya 002, 1st class, sleeper) and €17 (train 362N,^3rd class, single seat) per person. All these elements are specified to you once you have indicated your journey. At the station, the price goes down to 8 €.

The 3 classes

Whatever your booking method, you can choose between three classes. As you can see, you will not benefit from the same travel conditions. Also remember that some trains are still in their juice... First class (or business): spalny vagon (SV). Compartment 2 seats (mixed or not), 2 benches + 2 berths + 1 toilet. Depending on the length of the journey, several meals and snacks are included. Sheets, towel and goodies (slippers, toothbrush, etc.) provided. For the^2nd class (several categories): kupe car. 4-seater compartment (mixed or not), 2 transformable benches + 2 upper berths (cheaper, as you cannot sit in them) + 1 electrical socket. Common toilets (2 per car). Depending on the length of the journey, several meals and snacks are included. Sheets, towel and goodies (slippers, toothbrush, etc.) provided. And finally the^3rd class: platskart car. Open compartments for 4 to 2 people, 2 toilets. No meals. Sheets + towel provided or can be bought in the car (on Russian sites, sheets are included). Try to book the lower berths, which are more comfortable (and a little more expensive). Travelling as a couple? Book both berths on the same side: this way, during the day, you will share the same bench. The^3rd class is this legendary dormitory, extremely friendly!

Life on board

Before we leave. Do you sleep at least one night on board? Play it like a local! Prepare an extra bag: comfortable clothes, a pair of tap dance shoes, toiletries, a head gear, a multiple socket (in^3rd class, you pull out the electric plugs to recharge your smartphones) and above all cash, to pay for your extras (CB terminals not always available; Russians mostly pay with their phones). Pack provisions: tea; coffee, soups and freeze-dried noodles; market products; water. Since recently, the legendary babushkis, street vendors of pirojkis, fruit and other smoked fish, no longer have access to trains (officially, anti-terrorism law). Print out your tickets, keep your passport handy: you will present them to your provodnitsa, the conductor, before boarding.

During the journey. Let the provodnitsa guide you, pack your luggage and then change (in 1st and^2nd class, the compartment is left to you). The provodnitsa is both your leader and your ally (it keeps an eye on strangers)! It distributes sheets, explains how to unfold the seat (for those sleeping in the top bunk, a small folding ladder allows you to access it), and fines you if you smoke between two carriages. It provides extras: cutlery, cup (the podstakannik, which you can buy on board for about 1,300 RUB). She also sells tea, coffee, and some food (chips, sweets, water, etc.). But she rarely speaks English... Speaking of drinks, at the entrance of the wagon is the samovar, a permanent self-service hot water supply. About the stops: a sign (translated into English in the Rossiya) tells you the arrival time at the station and the stop times on the platform, sometimes in Moscow time. Some stops last more than 15 minutes: take the opportunity to refuel or smoke (allowed), but never go far away, even to visit a beautiful station (the farting green Novosibirsk station is a sumptuous one). In the^2nd and^3rd classes, two toilets and their mini washbasin are at your disposal (cat toilet sometimes acrobatic). Avoid traffic jams and dirty toilets by getting up at dawn. Otherwise, wait for the cleaning of the provodnitsa (late morning). Know that it exists, the legendary shower (but not in all trains)! Say "shower" to the provodnitsa (the same word in Russian), it will guide you to the right car. You have to book it in advance (every half hour; 150 RUB): you will be presented with a schedule, it's up to you to indicate your time! Finally, you have access to a restaurant car (often... empty).

When you leave. Unpack your bed and return the sheets to the provodnitsa. Don't forget anything... For those who wish to buy their tickets at the station, take advantage of your arrival to take the following route. One last tip: stations are equipped with rest rooms with beds in which you can sleep. A night in the station can be much more affordable (and adventurous) than a night in a hotel. Explore this option from time to time!