The essentials of Omani cuisine

Generally speaking, the basis of Omani cuisine is rice, as in most neighboring countries. Cooked in a variety of ways depending on the region, it remains the foundation food, which the Omanis accompany with meats (chicken, mutton, goat) or fish, mainly sardines or king mackerel. These dishes are often prepared in sauce and seasoned with spices such as cardamom, curry, saffron and cinnamon. It's a fairly rich cuisine, but much less spicy than other Middle Eastern cuisines.

Soup is an important component, eaten at both lunch and dinner, as is flat bread(rukhal), served at breakfast with honey and yoghurt(laban), and plain at other meals.

To sample the local cuisine, it's best to visit the sultanate during Ramadan, when the most typical national dishes are concocted. One example is shuwa, a recipe for mutton (sometimes goat or camel) cooked in a date or banana leaf for several days. Alternatively, machboos (called kebsa in Saudi Arabia) is a dish based on lamb or chicken and rice simmered with dried fruit and spices. And let's not forget mishkak, a spicy meat skewer that's very similar to the Turkish shish kebab. There's alsoharees, a kind of wheat and meat porridge served to the poorest during Ramadan. Seafood is served in simple dishes, such as mashuai, a recipe for barbecued mackerel. Baquorah is a type of vegetable croquette made from chickpea flour.

Foreign influences

As in the rest of the Persian Gulf, the Sultanate of Oman has a high proportion of non-residents in its population - 30% to be precise - most of whom come from the Middle East and Asia. So it's hardly surprising to discover, for example, the enormous popularity of Lebanese cuisine. For example, shawarma, a pita bread filled with spit-roasted meat and vegetables in a yoghurt sauce. Falafels, croquettes made from chickpea or bean paste, are also a regular feature. You can also sit down to a plate of mezzés, the famous Arab tapas made up of a multitude of hot or cold starters, served in small portions for nibbling: hummus (chickpea purée flavoured with sesame paste), moutabal (eggplant caviar), tabbouleh (salad made from cracked wheat, tomatoes, onions, parsley and mint), and so on. Keftas (spicy meatballs) are also common. Iranian cuisine is also found in the sultanate and generally consists of a rather spicy rice base, served with chicken, lamb, vegetables, various dried fruits, etc., accompanied by crudités and flat bread. The many workers from South Asia have made Indian and Pakistani cuisine very popular with the Omanis, and some specialities have become everyday dishes.

In Oman, and particularly in the capital's department stores, you'll find a vast selection of international cuisine - Chinese, Italian, American, Japanese and French - for those who want a change of flavour.

Sweets and coffee

The national dessert is halwa, a more or less firm nougat made from rosewater, sugar, sesame seeds and spices. The most famous is produced in Nizwa and attracts a loyal clientele from all over the sultanate and neighbouring countries. The Omanis also have a weakness for umm ali, a kind of pudding made from bread, milk, nuts and raisins, of Egyptian origin. Halawet Ahmad comes in the form of small vermicelli dumplings flavored with coconut and sweetened condensed milk, and sprinkled with crushed pistachios. Oriental pastries are widely available in Oman, where stores sell sweets from all corners of the Middle East.

Arabic coffee or kahwa is THE national drink. Always flavoured with a hint of spice (usually cardamom or saffron), kahwa is served black and sugar-free, with a few dates to reduce its bitterness. This is the drink that the Omanis systematically offer their guests, as a sign of respect and welcome, and this offer is always accompanied by a ritual that must be respected. In general, it's polite to drink three - small - cups of coffee. You shake your cup lightly when you've had enough. Inherited from Anglo-Indian cultures, tea occupies an important place in Arab culture and is drunk regularly in Oman.

Fresh drinks and alcohol

Fresh fruit juices are a common sight throughout the sultanate, and at very low prices indeed! They are served everywhere and are made from mangoes (the fruit most chosen by travellers), pineapples, strawberries, bananas, apples, kiwis, etc. Lemon mint juice is another popular drink with locals and visitors alike. Ultra-refreshing, its two basic ingredients are lemon and fresh mint, with lots of crushed ice.

Every year - on dates that vary according to the Hegira calendar - hundreds of millions of Muslims celebrate Ramadan for around 30 days. Profoundly solemn, this period of temperance is also a time of abundance, and Omani tables are fuller than ever for guests and families to feast after dark. It should be noted that no alcohol is served during Ramadan, even in licensed hotels and bars, and it is forbidden to transport alcohol except to your home or hotel.

In Oman, Islam forbids all consumption of alcohol by Muslims. There is therefore no local production of beer or wine. The sultanate does, however, tolerate the sale of all alcoholic beverages (wine, beer, aperitifs, spirits) to holders of a license (obtainable from your embassy), in specialized "bottle stores" at often very high prices. It is also possible to consume alcohol in virtually all hotels, in many of the capital's restaurants, and in a few private clubs.