Microcentro and Retiro
The Centro has two neighborhoods: San Nicolás and Montserrat.
San Nicolás. If there is one neighborhood that symbolizes the center of Buenos Aires for all Porteños, it is this one. In fact, it is rare to hear locals mention its name. Almost everyone prefers the generic name of "Centro". Its name refers to the church of San Nicolás de Bari, which was built at the end of the 18th century and no longer exists in the neighborhood. It was demolished during the construction of Avenida 9 de Julio and the expansion of Corrientes Avenue in the 1930s. The big obelisk, symbol of the city, nailed on its place, reminds its existence. Ideal to go out and soak up the local culture.
Microcentro. This is an unofficial neighborhood that occupies approximately 80% of the barrio of San Nicolás. Its boundaries are known as Córdoba and Mayo avenues, and 9 de Julio and Leandro N. Alem. There is the famous "City Porteña", Corrientes Avenue and the pedestrian Calle Florida, which is always crowded during the week.
Montserrat. To the south of the San Nicolás neighborhood is Montserrat, the neighborhood of the beautiful plazas, which is getting a new lease on life with the regular opening of new bars, restaurants and hotels. Montserrat encompasses the opulent Avenida de Mayo from the famous Casa Rosada to the imposing Parliament (Congreso de la Nación) and its long plaza, Plaza Colón, the famous Plaza de Mayo, the Casa Rosada and the church of San Ignacio de Loyola.
Retiro. Neighborhood that houses the huge omnibus station and the three small train stations. The Retiro neighborhood is not the most pleasant place to spend your nights in Puerto Rico, unless you stay in one of the many luxury hotels that line its busy streets. During the day, the area is much more attractive, with numerous art galleries, a high level of commercial activity and major tourist attractions such as Plaza San Martín and the Falklands Memorial. The very commercial Florida street that crosses the San Nicolás neighborhood ends at the Retiro.
San Telmo and Puerto Madero
San Telmo. No trip to Buenos Aires is complete without a visit to this neighborhood. Known as one of the oldest neighborhoods in Buenos Aires, it is the permanent scene of typical Puerto Rican scenes. Its good authentic restaurants, antique shops, artists' studios, small commercial galleries, tango lanes and the great Sunday fair on Defensa Street make it a great place to visit. Everything accentuates the unsettling and pleasant feeling of being elsewhere. Whoever loves Buenos Aires, loves San Telmo. The city authorities have understood this. For years, they have been taking care of its good preservation. Its small cobbled streets and colonial houses invite you to get away from it all and remind you of the affluent character of the neighborhood at one time. Pedro González Telmo, the protector of sailors, was a Dominican who preached the Bible to the Galician sailors. In the 17th century, the neighborhood of Alto San Pedro, where the sailors lived, took his name. San Telmo got its name from a religious building, the parish of San Pedro González Telmo, built in the early nineteenth century, although this fishermen's neighborhood had already existed for 150 years. The Plaza Dorrego has always been the hub of the area, which under a different name in the 18th century was already dedicated to commerce. If it did not continue to prosper as it should have, it was mainly due to a sudden tragedy: the yellow fever of 1871, which caused the elite to leave the neighborhood and move further north. The misfortune of some made the happiness of others, and in particular of the numerous European immigrants who quickly occupied these large abandoned houses. It was common to see a whole family occupying a single room in the house. These large buildings became what Porteños call conventillos. It will be interesting to see the Casa Minima at number 380 of Pasaje San Lorenzo, which is only 2.40 meters wide.
San Telmo is today a popular neighborhood with low houses with colored facades (more or less well maintained for economic reasons), and which has become increasingly trendy over the last ten years. It is also the neighborhood where all the tango establishments are concentrated, although it was born a little further away, in La Boca. Centuries ago, shortly after the foundation of the city, it was the place where the carts (El Alto de Carretas) gathered to reach Potosi and Chile. Coming from La Boca, it is a good idea to start your visit at Parque Lezama, which offers a nice view of the Russian Orthodox Church. Continue through Balcarce or Defensa which lead to the heart of the neighborhood. From Palermo, you can take bus 130 on Libertador, which drops off passengers on Paseo Colón, at San Telmo.
Puerto Madero. On the eastern side of San Telmo, the old dockside warehouses have been converted into a fashionable restaurant area for the Argentine and international jet set. It's fashionable, it's expensive and it's not always worth the price... but some top models and soccer players often walk around. Until a few years ago, Puerto Madero was impassable and abandoned. With huge investments, the municipality has achieved its goal of rehabilitating the old docks of Buenos Aires. Beyond rehabilitation, Puerto Madero, declared the 47th district of the capital in 1998, has become one of the most fashionable and expensive nightlife areas. One can be indifferent to this movida, or on the contrary be taken in by it, but at least one will appreciate to get closer to this river that one often hears about without ever seeing it. And the towers continue to grow... as if to give a futuristic face to the city, very far from the colonial architecture of San Telmo. Towers that are starting to get dangerously close to the Costanera Sur, known as the home of the beautiful ecological reserve of Buenos Aires, which runs along the River Plate. To find your way around Paseo Colón, on one side begins the neighborhood of San Telmo, and on the other, going down three cuadras, that of Puerto Madero. This one extends over a long rectangle (four basins along Alicia Moreau de Justo Avenue, between Córdoba and Juan de Garay).
La Boca and the South
La Boca. It is the headquarters of one of the most famous soccer teams in the world: Boca Juniors. It is here that Diego Maradona himself gave great performances in the famous Bombonera stadium, which you can visit. Boca is the southernmost of the historical districts of the Argentine capital. The first residential area of the Genoese inhabitants, it is located at the exact spot where Pedro de Mendoza founded Buenos Aires on the mouth of the Riachuelo River, where it joins the River Plate (according to one of the many historical versions of the city). Strongly marked by the arrival of many immigrants at the end of the 19th century from the Italian cities of Genoa and Naples, the neighborhood retains a popular atmosphere, often typical of port areas. And the Italian influence has always been felt here. It is the old industrial district of the city. At that time, the workers collected all the materials they needed to build their houses from the port: metal sheets, pieces of wood and even paint cans used to color their boats. Today, the colors are spread on the facades of La Boca. A cosmopolitan area, it is not recommended at night because of recurrent security problems. This poor district remains nevertheless picturesque with its very touristy Caminito and its streets of colored sheets. Rehabilitated by many artists in the 1950s, it sees more and more works of street art. To get there, you can take the bus 64 (it goes to Congreso), the bus 29 (Tribunales) or the bus 152 (which crosses all the avenue of Santa Fe). When you get off the bus, don't be surprised by the stench: the Riachuelo River that separates Buenos Aires from its southern suburbs is the third most polluted river in the world. So don't even think about taking a walk on its banks, prefer the Caminito!
Southern neighborhoods. In the south of Buenos Aires, there are other neighborhoods that are much less touristy and also not recommended at night. Among them, let's mention Constitución and its huge train station that serves the south of the city and the Atlantic coast, Barracas and its old colored houses, or Nueva Pompeya, further west.
Balvanera, Almagro and the West
This large area includes several distinct neighborhoods of Buenos Aires.
Balvanera. What neighborhood mixes as much as this one? None. Multiethnic, the Balvanera area extends from the back of the Congreso to Abasto and Once.
Abasto is only a small part of the Balvanera neighborhood. Although it is geographically located in the Balvanera neighborhood and is somewhat similar to it, Almagro has its own charm and identity. It is built around Corrientes and Anchorena avenues and the Abasto shopping center, formerly the city's most important market, built in 1894. It was in this market that little Carlos Gardel earned his first coins! The Gardel legend has also contributed to the very "tango" spirit of the neighborhood where the singer had his habits. For more than 50 years, many Peruvian immigrants have come to settle in Abasto. Imposing itself in a gastronomic universe then very porteño, one guesses the Peruvian community through numerous restaurants installed in the detours of the streets. Today, the district remains very attractive, even if some precautions are to be taken in terms of security.
Once is easily recognizable by its station "11 de Septiembre". It is a residential neighborhood, but one that has developed its commercial activity throughout the 20th century, thanks in part to the presence of the Jewish community in the "suburb" of Once. The movement continues with the recent installation of many Koreans. It is far from the beautiful stores of the Centro or Palermo. The stalls are growing steadily and the Porteños know that they can get good deals, which explains the intense traffic in the streets in the middle of the day.
The Once neighborhood has experienced two tragic events in the last decade: in December 2004, a fire at the Cromañón nightclub during a concert killed 194 people. In February 2012, just a stone's throw away, a train accident occurred at the Once train station, killing 51 people.
Almagro. The neighborhood of Almagro is located north of Boedo and west of Balvanera. Like Balvanera, it is primarily a residential area with a high level of commercial activity. Lovers of authenticity will enjoy it. Almagro was developed late in comparison with the other neighborhoods in the center. Its urban development took place at the end of the 19th century. As in many other areas (La Boca, San Telmo), the wealthier families abandoned their homes to escape yellow fever, and the poorer classes occupied them. They were soon joined by immigrants, mainly Basques and Italians, to work in milking and construction.
Boedo. Often forgotten in the classic itineraries of a stay in Buenos Aires, the very residential Boedo will certainly be an excellent surprise for all those who venture there. More authentic than Palermo, for example, it offers a surprisingly tranquil way of life, far from the urban fury of Centro or Retiro. Small restaurants, philosophical bars and milongas give rhythm to the life of the district. It is surely no coincidence that Boedo is the main scene chosen by many novels or that some tango songs have fun evoking it. And then Boedo moves, grows and turns resolutely towards the future.
Villa Crespo. Essentially residential, this neighborhood is wedged between Palermo and Avenida Córdoba to the north, Caballito to the south, and Almagro and Parque Centenario to the east. Its proximity to Palermo is its main interest: this neighborhood is growing by leaps and bounds and the offer in terms of restaurants and nightlife is more and more interesting.
Caballito. A large residential neighborhood in the geographic center of Buenos Aires, it is one of the most populated in the city. The large residential towers always overshadow the quiet streets with trees. Caballito has several green areas, including Parque Centenario and Parque Rivadavia. It has little tourist interest.
Flores. To the west of Caballito, the popular neighborhood of Flores is also of little tourist interest. You can still see a few quintas, the luxurious country houses built by wealthy Puerto Ricans outside the city. But the city quickly expanded! The neighborhood is also known for being the setting for the fantastic tales of writer and radio host Alejandro Dolina, who created a veritable mythology around him. It is also the birthplace of Pope Francis; guided tours are organized in the neighborhood in his footsteps.
La Recoleta - Barrio Norte
The neighborhood of Recoleta (covering most of the unofficial Barrio Norte) owes its name to the order of the Recollet Brothers who had established their convent there. Porteños often like to compare Recoleta to the beautiful neighborhoods of Paris. The fact of having a Plaza Francia perhaps. In fact, over the years, the Plaza Francia has become the heart of the neighborhood, with its lawns hosting numerous craft stands. Even if the Haussmannian style is difficult to recognize, it must be said that the area is one of the most elegant in the capital, having attracted since its foundation in the late eighteenth century, the upper middle class and bourgeoisie. It is true that its two main streets, Avenida Alvear and Avenida Quintana, are a succession of beautiful buildings reminiscent of the beautiful Parisian neighborhoods. The visitor will enjoy discovering its architecture and strolling through its airy streets, connecting the beautiful squares to each other. The Recoleta cemetery is the most famous point of interest, but the many museums, not the least of which is the Buenos Aires Fine Arts Museum, as well as the legion of galleries and cultural centers, make this a very pleasant area to visit. It is also important to remember that you can eat well in Recoleta, located between the Centro and Palermo. A chic, trendy and sometimes... artificial neighborhood. Another facet of Buenos Aires.
Palermo and Las Cañitas
Palermo is undoubtedly the neighborhood that has undergone the most spectacular evolution in the entire capital. The rich families of the beginning of the 20th century left beautiful houses here, but it was above all a working-class neighborhood where immigrants from Italy and Central Europe crowded. It is not a historical neighborhood, there are no monuments of interest, but a series of charming streets, squares and alleys that make it one of the most pleasant walks in Buenos Aires.
A bohemian, artistic and left-wing intelligentsia neighborhood, its life takes place mainly around Plaza Cortázar (ex-Plaza Serrano) and Plaza Italia. Over the last ten years, the garage owners of Palermo Viejo (a former specialty of the neighborhood) have gradually disappeared, giving way to a fashionable boutique here, a boutique hotel there, and a brand new restaurant. It is particularly recommended to spend an afternoon wandering around, to continue the discovery with a dinner and to take a last digestive walk (bewitching setting at night...). You have to hurry to visit it, as the district is slowly losing its soul to trendy bars, design stores and modernist real estate renovations undertaken by its new inhabitants, who are much less nostalgic than us. This is because this neighborhood has become one of the most popular with the local bohemian bourgeoisie, just like Palermo Hollywood, where many audiovisual production companies have set up shop (in the area above Avenida Juan B. Justo).
Very large, and located north of the historic center and therefore of San Telmo, Retiro or Recoleta, Palermo is divided into many small areas with evocative names.
Palermo Chico. Palermo Chico is an extension of Recoleta on Avenida Libertador and Río de la Plata. One of the most exclusive areas of Buenos Aires. Its middle-class houses and parks are worth a relaxing walk, unless you are invited to a cocktail party given by one of its many embassies.
Alto Palermo. Alto Palermo is a more socially mixed neighborhood. Very commercial during the day, especially on Avenida Santa Fé and around Alto Palermo Shopping, it does not represent a major tourist interest. It is only worth a visit for shoppers (clothes, shoes, leather) outside of the shopping centers. It merges with the Villa Freud area.
Villa Freud. This is the area around the Plaza Güemes. It gets its name from the fact that many psychoanalysts and psychologists have their offices here!
Palermo Viejo. Off-center, Palermo Viejo is a must-see destination, bounded by Charcas Street and Avenida Córdoba, Julian Alvarez Street and Avenida Dorrego. It includes the areas of Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood, separated by Juan B. Justo Avenue.
Palermo Soho. One of the two trendiest areas of Palermo, wedged between Avenida Santa Fé and Avenida Córdoba from east to west, and between Avenida Juan B. Justo and Scalabrini Ortiz avenues from north to south. Many trendy bars, excellent restaurants and original stores.
Palermo Hollywood. The same profile as Palermo Soho, except that it is located north of Juan B. Justo Avenue and extends to Dorrego Avenue. This neighborhood gave its name to an album by the nightlife singer Benjamin Biolay.
Las Cañitas. This evolving area is located in the northeast of the neighborhood, near the big racetrack and the Palermo Polo Club. It was very residential until the mid-1990s, but has since become more and more popular with restaurants, bars and nightclubs, and is now a very lively area in the evening. However, it is an "exclusive" neighborhood where more and more residences rely on their own security and where drinks are expensive.
Palermo Green. In the common language of the area's residents, the Villa Crespo neighborhood is gradually being dubbed Palermo Green, although it does not belong to Palermo, being west of Avenida Córdoba. Palermo Green is a testament to the weight that the word "Palermo" has taken on in Buenos Aires. Everything that is Palermo is necessarily in, hype, trendy, mega-cool... so the real estate developers abuse it.
Belgrano and Costanera Norte
With its quiet, tree-lined streets and Barrio Chino (Chinatown), this mostly residential neighborhood has some interesting Asian restaurants and comes alive at night with its eclectic resto-bars! As for Costanera norte, a few years ago, small carts started selling snacks along the Río de la Plata. Due to their success, the carts turned into restaurants that were popular with the whole of Buenos Aires!
