Things to see and do Turkmenistan

Passionate about horses, which are an integral part of Turkmen culture, Khemra Gulmedov bought a former state pigsty that he had converted into Akhal-Teke horse stables in 1997. His stud started with four redeemed horses to the local kolkhoz: it now accounts for 42 of the 2 000 that the country currently counts (the presidential stables have 300, and it is estimated that there are only 4 000 Chevaux-Teke horses in the world). Khemra visits his breeding with passion, and organizes small demonstrations of dressage conducted by a Turkmen in Traditional clothes. The stables also have a small guesthouse, where you can stay for $ 30 per night in full board. And for those who know how to climb, Khemra organizes several days trekking in the desert: most travel agencies in Ashgabat can help organise the expedition.

To finance his livestock, which costs him more than he does, Khemra has embarked on the production of artisan carpets, his second passion. He has brought the best tisseuses in the country, which designs beautiful carpets sold around the world. Its carpets have a degree of thoroughness that gives them astronomical prices: up to $ 1000 m ² for a carpet with a million knots per square metre! You can visit the weaving workshops.

A park with a maîtresse statue, surrounded by Akhal-Teke horses.

This large park on the edge of the Berzengi area covers several hectares. Towards the bottom of the park, the city centre is the commercial centre Edition Altyn, which is recognisable to its pyramid form and cascades that catch the full height of the facades. A high-quality restaurant is located on the top floor of the shopping centre. Coming back to the park, we fall on a giant Ruhnama, with a Niyazov effigy on a purple background. Fill of kitsch: this 2,5 m high book opens on Saturday evening, a true spectacle of sounds and lights in tribute to the president's essential work. Even further in the park is the tower of Independence. In front of it, of course, there is a great golden statue of Niyazov, surrounded by five-headed eagles. This fabulous animal is the president's symbol: the five heads represent the five united provinces, and the snake is wisdom. The tower itself is surmounted by a golden ring, and is surrounded by huge statues representing the heroes of the nation. A museum is located in the tower building. It's the Coin Museum, open from 10 am to 17 pm, but whose visit is really not necessary.